Azienda Fongoli Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso Reserva -

When I was researching my trip to Italy, everywhere I read people described Umbria as quiet, remote, difficult to travel to by train, and understated. Next to it's flashy and popular sister Tuscany, I can see why my friend Rachel (pictured here with me) calls Umbria the "New Hampshire of Italy". I found it charming and rustic, stunning and inviting... but then again I feel that way about most of Italy.

Apparently the Etruscans were obsessed with keeping this concept of "living in the shadow" alive, as even the name Umbria derives from ombra meaning shadow. At any rate, Umbria is a land-locked region. It's hugged by Tuscany to the north and west, Le Marche and the Appenine to the east, and Lazio (Rome home) flanks the south. It's literally in the center on Itlay - il cuore verde d'Italia. It is full of medieval hilltop towns like Assissi, Perugia, Spoleto, and Montefalco. The countryside flows with rolling hills dotted with olive groves and vines. Thanks to those rolling hills there is no shortage of micro-climates.

When in Umbs recently, we stayed in the hill topper of Montefalco in a chic hotel right in the central piazza. We found this gem at the recommendation of my friends Brian Dore and Maria Gabrielle Landers, who run a concierge service for personalized experiences in Umbria and all of Italy (http://www.conciergeinumbria.com/). They were awesome - they recommended the hotel and the restaurant (Alchemista, which happened to be the best place we ate on the trip) AND a visit to an amazing winery - FONGOLI!!! http://www.fongoli.com/. Fongoli is not imported to the US at this very moment, but hopefully that will change soon. All the same, we felt like we were getting an amazing personal experience...oh did I mention that we were given a guided tour and tasting by Angelo (grandson) and a 4 course succulent lunch by Anna - his radiant mother (see photos). Toasted bread with their estate's own olive oil, risotto al sagrantino, blueberry crostata. I happily digress...

Angelo and his beautiful wife! Our lovely hosts!

We tasted all of their wines. and I loved them all. The Grechetto (crisp white wine) and their passito of Sagrantino (sweet red wine) were fabulous, but these following two are my preferiti preferiti!! This first one is the signature grape of the area...the reason Montefalco was awarded the DOCG status for this grape --- Sagrantino di Montefalco. Sagrantino is awesome - it is not super super tannic and it has a smooth spiciness. Producers like Fongoli are keeping their Sagrantino true to varietal and true to the region with the perfect balance of rustic-ness, spice, and fruit. The color is rich dark garnet, the aromas are of spicy cranberry, plum and raspberry, and it is velvety and rich on the palate. Everyone in the area will make this same claim - but these grapes are really hand picked (see the picture I took of a bunch of Fongoli's Sagrantino grapes at the top of the page).

The second wine that I love is Fongoli's Rosso di Montefalco Riserva - this is a blend of Sagrantino, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Barbera. First of all - I never even thought that Rosso di Montefalco was a possibility - I've never seen it. Well, the Fongolis are not the only ones who make this - but they do make a fantastico one. You get the richness and the depth from the Sagrantino, the rustic spiciness from the Sangiovese, a smoothness from the Merlot and a ripe cherry fruitiness from the Barbera. On the nose there is a sweet and sour cherry aroma with rich berry fruit, the palate is overflowing with berries and subtle spice and more cherry. It is so full bodied and gorgeous!

The Fongolis were so lovely and unpretentious and welcoming. They really made us feel like we were a part of their family and that was so special...because I've always wanted to be a part of wine-making family. A gal can dream!!!

Some of the wines we enjoyed during our gourmet lunch!

Rachel and me with LA MAMA e Cuoca, Anna

O! Verdicchio! Refreshing Vino Bianco from Sartarelli - Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC

Sartarelli Verdicchio

One of the highlights of my recent trip to Le Marche was a visit to the Sartarelli winery. In general, this region does not get a lot of attention. Everyone seems to flock to Tuscany if they are interested in Central Italy. Le Marche is pannino'ed between the dramatic Appenine mountain range and the stunning Adriatic sea. There is plenty of hilly countryside between the two.

Sartarelli Vineyards

Verdicchio is a much maligned grape from a much maligned region. It used to be jug wine in bottles shaped like fish for goodness sake. Patrizio and Donatella Sartarelli had a huge mano in giving Verdicchio the respect it deserves. They only grow this grape and you an really experience Verdiccio at its best by tasting through their 4 wines.

Verdicchio grapes in Tralivio vineyard

Verdicchio in general is a crisp, refreshing white wine. There can be zesty citrus notes and also a blanched almond quality. Verdicchio is grown throughout Le Marche, but the undisputed champion of the wine is from the DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. This is located due west of coastal Ancona in the beautiful hills around Jesi (pronounced Yes-eeee - not Jessss-eee like I was referring to it as all week!). Legally you can blend in Malvasia and Trebbiano. As I mentioned, Le Marche is on the Adriatic and it's no accident that this wine is a perfect companion to mussels, oysters, and calimari... I could go on and on and on....

I was so excited to visit Le Marche and Sartarelli in particular. At the store, I've been putting bottles of Sartarelli into people's hands each day. Turning them on to something a little different than the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or the Chablis that they came in for gives me great satisfaction. It's like the rush you get when you wean someone of White Zinfandel. I have converted dozens. I wanted to see where the magic happened. My friends Aubra and Rachel were travelling in Italy with me too. We made it to Sartarelli exactly an hour late thanks to our misleading GPS system who fought us the entire trip. The good news is that the detour gave us a better idea of the region. The countryside is undulating and there are beautiful hilltop towns (one detour was aptly named Montebellina). There are olive groves and vineyards and a slight taste of the sea in the air. We were there on a beautiful clear day and it made me fall in love with Italy all over again.

Enough of the romance! Donatella Sartarelli in her elegant raw silk dress greeted us with kisses and promptly passed us into the hands of her amazing husband and winemaker Patrizio. He took us around to the different vineyards and showed us the grapes. The picture of the Verdiccio grapes is from the Tralivio vineyards. They are trained in the Guyot style. This allows them to get the drying sea breezes that fends off mold and rot. Also you can see the bunches that are formed - they have "ears" on either side. That's typical for Verdicchio and apparently that's how you want them to look.

Here's me and Patrizio at the Travlio vineyards. Tralivio meaning tra gli olivetti --- among the olive trees. Not suprisingly, Sartarelli also produces some pretty fantastic olive oil.

He took us to the Tralivio vineyards and then over to the Balciana vineyards where the oldest vines are growing grapes for their highest level Verdicchio ($50 retail). Amazing! Patrizio drove us UP to that vineyard - no cars allowed! He did pause and rolled down the window, and urged us to pluck some blackberries off a nearby bush. I love Italy. Back at the ranch, we were given a tour of fermenting tanks and the stainless steel tanks. All of the wines are aged and fermented in stainless steel. Then the best part -- the tasting! It was such a treat to sit down and taste with the winemaker. I love the wines of course and have so much respect for this family - but to see the pride and love in Patrizio's face as he regarded each wine and tasted it. That was a fabulous experience.

Rachel and Patrizio at the winery overlooking his vines.

Patrizio in the Tralivio vineyard

Verdicchio Classico 2008 - vine age 4-20 years - stainless steel
color - pale straw with green tinge
nose - honey, almond, sweet herbs, lemon
palate - apricot, honey, meyer lemon, zesty, great acidity

Verdicchio Tralivio 2007

stainless steel
color - golden straw
nose - honey, lime zest, blanched almonds, citrus
palate - spice, honey, meyer lemon, great acidity, long bright finish

Verdicchio Balciana 2007- oldest vines, best vineyard site.
picture up at the top of the blog is the Balciana vineyard. Late harvest wine, but completley dry.
color - gold
nose - spun honey and spice
palate - cream honey, lemon curd, full bodied, rich luxurious mouth-feel

Verdicchio Passito 2007- sweet wine. grapes are hand picked usually at the end of October and dry on straw mats for 5 weeks.
color: gold
nose: delicate honey, bitter almonds
palate: light pineapple syrup, cane sugar, honey, almond, sweet spice.
This is not a cloying passito, it is intensely flavored and balanced, it is defined by its flavor not its sweetness.

www.sartarelli.it