Tuesday, August 12, 2014

You Get What You Pay For, M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rose 2013, Cotes du Rhone Disappoints Big Time!

Normally, I'm a huge Cotes-du-Rhone enthusiast, and I generally encourage people to drink them because they are amazing values and made with forgiving grapes like Syrah and Grenache.  Sometimes even a cheap CdR tastes cheap - that's what happened here in this out of balance M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rose.

I know that this wine was only $10.99 (and discounted 15% because it was a part of a mixed case) but it was pretty disappointing.   The nose was lackluster, and the finish was weak - but that's not what made me not enjoy this wine; it was the burning alcohol on the finish that made it taste unpleasant and oddly like some kind of a rose vodka.

The Chapoutier website claims that this is primarily Grenache with a little Syrah and Cinsault.  It was just not tasty.  Plus side - I saved calories by not drinking wine.  Down side - I didn't drink wine tonight. If you only have $10 to spend - grab one of the rosados from Spain that I've reviewed.  Otherwise, just grab a couple of vodka nips.

The Verdict --   FAIL!
color: pretty rosy pink w/ touch of purple
nose: faint watermelon and strawberry, wet stone
palate: strawberry - burning tart strawberry, sour watermelon belts - overwhelming alcohol
price: $10.99
pairing: I had this with some turkey meatballs, and after the first couple of sips I switched over to seltzer water.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

More than just a pretty face - Miraval Cotes de Provence Rosé 2013

oooh! i feel like I'm in Provence!!

Sometimes you visit a wine region, and the wine just tastes so incredible.  You bring some back or buy some when you get back home to recreate that experience, and most times it falls short.  This was not my experience with the Miraval Provence Rosé.  It tasted as great today as it did when my hubby and I lounged under an olive tree at the Perrin family restaurant L'oustalet in Gigondas http://www.loustalet-gigondas.com/en/.  Great wine can transport us, and sipping on this little beauty; I am back in Southern France!

This pink drink is brought to us by the extraordinary Perrin family.  They are masters of the southern Rhone Valley to say the least, and everything they touch tastes delicious.  It's no wonder that when they decided to make wine from select parcels in Provence (on their summer estate no less) and partner with the Jolie-Pitts (yes THOSE Jolie-Pitts) it would be phenomenal.

Grapes:  Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Rolle
Typical blend for south of France.  Rolle is a white grape - also known as Vermentino by our friends in Italia.
Region: Cotes de Provence
http://familleperrin.com/.  This is a large area as we've learned, but that doesn't mean that the wine has to suck.  This wine is made from selected single vineyards withing the region.

Color: pretty pale pink
Nose: melon, peach, raspberry and strawberry.  delicate violet and wet stone.
Palate: tart wild strawberry, citrus fruits, crisp and fresh.  Little twang of mint, lots of mineral and mouthwatering acidity. Great zingy finish.
Price: $25
Pairing: had the first half with sushi and the second half with a Caesar salad!  Easy to drink solo though!!

The Verdict
This is my favorite rose so far in this tasting.  It's so elegant and lean but has so much power and grace behind it.  It's such a pretty balance of floral and herbaceous peppered with delicate peach and strawberry.  If you see this bottle, don't be afraid of it's distinct squat and sloping bottle shape - or it's $25 ish price tag.  Buy it and drink it --- preferably outdoors.  It's irrisistable.

Saturday, July 19, 2014

Drinking and Selling Rosé this week in NYC with Glenn Close, Pulenta Estate La Flor Rosé Malbec 2013, Mastroberandino Lacrimarosa, Chateau de Paraza Minervois Rosé, Axel des Vignes Bordeaux Rosé

Vertran NYC sales rep, Steve Pellegrini

OK! Only one Rosé was drunk with Glenn Close, and she was drinking a glass of white wine at the time... at another table... across the room! This week I worked with two superstar wine sales reps in New York City.  We sold a lot of the Rosé that I represent (Pulenta La Flor Malbec Rosé) and we drank a lot of the competition (for research purposes only!!)


 Pulenta Estate La Flor Malbec Rosé 2013
Mendoza, Argentina -- 100% Malbec
$13.99
This is a non-saignee method rosé made from 100% Malbec grapes from the family owned vineyard of the Pulenta family over in Mendoza, Argentina - grapes were grown specifically for this bottling.  The estate is lovely, the people are lovely, and suprise suprise, the wine is lovely too.  A rich fruit punch hue, strawberry and cranberry on the nose, and mineral and juicy watermelon on the palate along with a dry finish.  It's a great little rosé and you're helping me with every bottle you buy and guzzle. Available by the glass in NYC at Joe Allen, Nelson Blue, Casa Mezcal, and Community Juice.

 Mastroberadino Lacrimarosa 2013
Campania, Italy --100% Aglianico
$16.99
Glenn Close in Rose friendly plaid (look hard!)
Steve Pellegrini and I drank this at Orso on 46th Street with in swirling and spitting distance from Glenn Close.  It photographs dark, but the color is a rosy pink and the nose was very aromatic and pleasant full of raspberry, blood orange, and plum.  Very drinkable with similar fruit on the palate, pretty acidity, and a respectable finish.  I had this with a Gorgonzola and prosciutto pizza with arugula.  It was perfect. Plus - loved the jug they served the carafe in!  Made me feel like I was in Sorrento!
 Axel des Vignes 2013
Bordeaux, France - Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot blend
$8.99
Sometimes you get get what you pay for, and in this case an $8.99 rosé tastes just like that... a cheap wine.  The color is gorgeous a medium intense pinky orange.  The nose is even quite pleasantly aromatic with notes of  plum, peach and red fruit.  On the palate, this wine really falls apart.  There is no fruit whatsoever, but I could even excuse that if there was any kind of finish.  It's a boring, vapid wine with bad structure.  Congrats Axel - you get the award for the worst rosé I've tasted so far.  Please proceed to the bottom of the list... fin de queue, pour toi!!


Chateau de Paraza AOC Minervois Rosé 2013
Minervois (Langued'oc) France - 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah
$11.99
David Burke (the sales rep!) and I had this delicious little sipper with lunch sales call at Harlem's Red Rooster. This is an example of an inexpensive wine that doesn't taste cheap.  Hailing from the heat of the southwest coastal curve of France this has a perfect pale pink color (looks darker in photo).  Aromatic on the nose, spice from the Syrah, plum and red berries from the Grenache.  Palate is simple but has a lot of freshness and fruit.  Finishes dry and is very easy to drink.  It also paired extraordinarily well with Marcus Samuelson's Gravlax and the Lobster Roll!

Monday, July 14, 2014

Liquid Geography Rosado 2013 - Philanthropic Drinking!

I didn't even realize how cool this rosado was until I took a closer look at the label and saw a gold seal stating Muchas Gracias and a little paragraph explaining how 100% of the profits of the rosado go to charity to fund a cure for cancer.

The Grape & Region:
This rosado is 100% Monastrell from the Bullas region in Southeastern Spain.
Monastrell also goes by the name of Mourvedre - super popular in the south of France.  It's a late ripening grape that needs heat and plenty of drinking water.  It's a big boy (or girl) tannic, alcoholic, with intense color (thanks to thick skin) and phenolics.

What? You say, a rosado like this has the feel of a Provencal rosé?  well, you're learning so quickly - yes, many aP rovencal rosé uses this sturdy grape in their blends.

The region of Bullas is almost completely dedicated to Monastrell!  We're talking somewhere in the area of 80%.  That's a lot of percent.  The D.O. (Denominacion Origin) Bulles is for the production of young reds and rosados only.  Sorry white wine.

Also, I love this label and the term Liquid Geography.  I wish I'd coined it.  We in the wine biz are always talking about terroir and a sense of place and how that generally elevates the wine from the vast gallons of plonk.  In this case, this little $12 rosado is telling a story of where it's from.  It's a cool, crisp and refreshing pink drink made from the Bullas region that specializes in this grape and this style of wine.  This is brought to us by the masterminds at Ole imports.  The more I drink from these guys, the more I like them.

The Verdict
A tasty wine that you can feel good about drinking... sign me up.  As with most Spanish wines, you're getting a lot of bang for your buck.  These are old vines they're using, and the wine is just darn tasty.
color: perfect pink
nose: Italian plum, spice, strawberry, cherry, hint of earthiness
palate: nice acidity, lots of minerality and faint strawberry - finishes dry
price: $12.99
pairing: this stood up to spicy BBQ beef brisket.  Yum!

Sunday, July 13, 2014

Rosé Weekender Edition - Bouquet of 3 Rosés -Hendry Rosé 2013, Eric Kent Rosé 2013, 14-18h Gaia Rosé 2013


label of Eric Kent's Rose
This installment is dedicated to the three rosés I sampled this weekend.  The Hendry Rosé even came out and joined us for Karaoke on Saturday!!

Eric Kent Rosé 2013 
Sonoma Coast, California
(less than 350 cases made)
45% Pinot Noir/ 55% Syrah
https://www.erickentwines.com/
$21.99
 Even though Eric Kent's label was the most eye-catching, I enjoyed this wine the least.  Maybe I had a bad bottle, but I found the alcohol so overwhelming that I couldn't taste anything on the palate.  My friend MariLisa might disagree with me, she seemed to like this more than me, but hubby David and I both felt our tongues burning from alcohol overload!  I would say that in researching Eric Kent for this blog, he seems like a really cool guy, dedicated to promoting interesting artists -- like Yellena  James for this label, and they're a smallish operation.  I would try his other wines for sure.
The color is bright clear red like cherry Kool-ade.  It had some strawberries and cream on the nose, some sweet plum and spice, but truly I just smelled alcohol.  On the palate, there was bitterness and tongue searing heat from alcohol.  I got a hint of fruit and minerality before the burn.
I am always confused why a winemaker would want to marry Pinot Noir and Syrah.  They don't seem compatible - the Syrah would seem to overpower a delicate Pinot Noir.  Then again, I'm no winemaker.

Hendry Rosé 2013 
Napa Valley, California
(less than 700 cases made)
Primitivo/ Cabernet Sauvignon/ Zinfandel (exact percentages not found)
http://www.hendrywines.com/current/rose13.html
$17.99
David and I visited Hendry last year when we were in California.  We had a questionable time at the winery - the tour guide/tasting guide was a very technical person and not really a great people person.  However, I really like this all-estate winery and their meticulous attention to detail Their label btw, is really classic, simple, and inviting.
Remember what we were saying about saigneé rosés?  Well this is one of them, it's basically a by-product/ means to get a more concentrated red wine.  I thought that the saigneés would not have as much integrity (and maybe they don't has as much longevity?) but this one was great.  It's a spicy little blend of Zinfandel and Primitivo (related varietals) and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Yes, we took this to karaoke with us, and it held up well to Elvis (see photo below) Neil Diamond, and Cher.
Fresh and vibrant on the nose with notes of watermelon, plum, strawberry, and some almost oaky spice. The wine is close to bone dry, crisp and refreshing.  There is still quite a bit of that fresh juicy fruit on the palate and a pleasing finish.  Very good.  If you see this - definitely pick up a bottle or order some on their website.

AGIORGITIKO 14-18 h
Greek Rose I had at Nerai in NYC

Gaia, Agiorgitiko 14-18h Rosé 2013 
Peloponnese, Greece
http://nerainyc.com/  and http://www.gaia-wines.gr/en/products/agiorgitiko-14-18-h
$15.99
I enjoyed a glass of this at Nerai in midtown NYC pre-karaoke.  It's a chic Greek restaurant whose white stone walls make you feel like you could be if not in Mykonos then at least on vacation!  All of my pictures I took were blurry, so sorry for the stock photo.  This rosé was the most interesting one that I tried - and the cheapest!!
The grape here is Agiorgitiko, a fragrant grape that is the main red grape in Nemea (Peleponnese penninsula).  This wine is named for the time it spends on the skins... somewhere between 14 and 18 hours.  The color on this rosé was also quite dark, and deep pink/purple.  The nose was extrememly fragrant in a unique way.  along with the typical and enjoyable aromas of plum and cherry, there was also a distict herbal note of tarragon and rosemary.  It was very intriquing.  There was a slight bitterness on the palate, not unlike an amaro, followed by the fruit notes of the nose.  Very cool, and quite a bargain for under $20.  Support Greek wines!!!!  They need our help, consumers.

Hendry Rose at Karaoke - Elvis in the background.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Pink Perfection - Crossbarn Rosé of Pinot Noir 2013, Sonoma Coast, California

The Crossbarn Pinot Noir Rosé is made by the good people at Paul Hobbs in Sonoma, California. Full disclosure... I work for Paul Hobbs Imports!  However, I can be fairly objective when I say that this rosé is quite delicious and one of my favorite pink drinks! And no, I don't get any commission for any bottles sold.  That being said, I advise you to visit the winery online if you are interested in trying this - it's rare to see in a wine store & they sold out at the winery before the end of last summer.  Just sayin'.  http://store.crossbarnwinery.com/shop.ams?

This rosé is made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes sourced from the Sonoma Coast.  This is a cooler climate area (think rolling fog and chilly ocean breezes) and perfect for this crisp and aromatic style of rosé. The grapes are hand-harvested (best to handle Pinot Noir as gently as possible) and then fermented in stainless steel.

The nose is just stunning -  very aromatic and evolving in the glass quite a bit.  Tons of candied orange rind (the winery tasting notes say tangerine oil - I like that description) along with wild strawberry, white cherry, and a pleasant spicy note.

I've been drinking $10 rosés for these first few days, and with a wine like the Crossbarn Rosé, the benefits of the trade up are really illuminated.  You get a crafted wine, the balance of fruit and acidity is perfect, the nose and palate are much more complex, not just one note, but multi-layered. The palate mirrors the nose, but also has a freshness and minerality that whets the appetite. Yum!  Prepare to be transported to Sonoma wine country!

The Verdict
color: deep ballet slipper pink
nose: strawberry, orange zest
palate: strawberry, watermelon, candied orange rind, minerality
price: $18
pairing: fish tacos, lobster rolls and grilled chicken caesar salad!!
One of my favorite roses. If you live near me, I'm willing to share, but you should probably buy your own!!

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

South African Sipper - DMZ Cabernet Rosé 2013


Today's exploration in pink takes us to South Africa where I tasted the DMZ Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2013.   I'm on the road this week, so my stemware was actually a plastic cup!   The DMZ rosé is made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon  by the DeMorgenZen winery in Stellenbosch from grapes within the Western Cape. You can see from the map below that it's a fairly large area spanning several wards and regions.  This is not the most terroir specific rosé, but I think it's very interesting and really delivers a punch for hovering around the $10 range.   
  
Yes, this is an inexpensive rosé, but it's still interesting.  I kept going back to sniff and swirl to try and decipher what I thought I was smelling.  It somehow embodies both the sweet (in the fruity aromas of strawberry) and the savory (cumin spice) and a third characteristic... earth maybe - but really it was more of an asphalt smell - like newly laid asphalt - very tarry.  One might expect this distinct pungency on the nose  from South Africa - and that's not a negative comment (from me anyway).  I find that $10 wines can be boring - this was not the case with DMZ.


The Verdict
color: dark salmon pink
nose: currant, macerated strawberries, hot asphalt after the rain
palate: mouthwatering, bright acidity, more mineral than fruit - some tart redcurrant or cranberry not much
price: $10.99 
pairing: I didn't pair it with anything, but it would be great with some shrimp pad thai... or maybe i'm just hungry.  Drink as an aperetif - like many rosés, but serve some food with it - with all of the zippy acidity can really stand up to proscuitto and other cured meats 'n snausages. 

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

NY State of Rose, Martha Clara Northern Solstice 2012, Long Island, NY

I enjoyed this Long Island rosé that was given as a gift to our adopted aunt and uncle; Linda and Gene Brody (they are also our bridge partners) I will also add that Linda is recovering from knee replacement surgery and refrained from taking any pain pills so she could enjoy a glass (or two) of this rosé with me! How is that for dedication!

I couldn't find any information about the grape varietal.
It only says Dry Rosé.  Martha Clara is on the North Fork of Long Island, so I am going to take a wild guess and say that its a rosé of Merlot.  The style was dry and pleasant, and crisp - nudging toward a Provencal style.  It is a 2012, and although it's about a year behind where most current rosés are - there was still a lot of tart strawberry and cranberry as well as some zippy acidity to still give good life to this wine.

Now, if some of my friends are still reading at this point, I'm going to blow your mind and give you a wee bit of background info on Martha Clara.  It's named for... wait for it... matriarch Martha Clara ENTENMANN!!  That's right, one of their sons bought an old potato farm and basically turned it into a horse heaven, and then succumbed to what his neighbors were doing and transformed the farm into vineyards in the mid-90's.  I wonder if this rosé would pair well with powdered donuts or pound cake... probably!

The Verdict
Color: pinky salmon (looks pinker than it really was in this picture)
Nose: faded strawberry, cranberry
Palate: crisp, mineral driven with tart red plum and strawberry
Price: unknown - approx $15.99
Pairing: We had this with a plain pie from the 70th street and Broadway pizzeria.  Pretty great.  It also cut right through the garlic knots in a very refreshing way!

www.marthaclaravineyards.com

Monday, July 7, 2014

Zippy and Refreshing Rosado from Spain, Armas de Guerra Rosada Mencia, 2013 -- Day 2 of Rosé Challenge

This tasty little rosado from Spain's underrated region of Bierzo is crisp and refreshing, and easy on the wallet.  For around 10 dollars, we get a 100% varietal - in this case; Mencia, old bush vines, and lots of tasty freshness and acidity.  All that and a sassy label - that's a pretty great scenario.

Grape - 100% Mencia
Region - Bierzo, Spain.

Mencia (also known as Jaen in neighboring Portugal) is the signature grape of the Bierzo region in Northwest Spain.  It's a naturally high acid grape (think Pinot Noir) and has typical flavors/aromas of strawberry and some interesting herbal qualities as well like mint.  Vino translation... this is a great food wine - that acidity is going to cut right through anything fatty or spicy.

This rosado is a great value, as are the red (tinto ) wines from that region - so make sure to try one when you get the chance. 




The Verdict
Color -pastel pink
Nose - cranberry, wild strawberry, herbaceous (tarragon?)
Palate - dry, strawberry, mineral, hint of mint
Price:  $10.99
Pairing: drank this alongside my signature Caesar salad.  Perfection!!

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Day 1 of Rosé Challenge- Maison Bourron, Cotes de Provence 2013 - Easy like Sunday Evening

I  pulled this pretty bottle from my case o' rosés to pair with tonight's supper (BBQ  Chicken) and to inaugurate my first day of rose-a-thon-ing.  We start with the Maison Bourron Reserve, Cotes du Provence 2013.  It is a perfectly fine little rosé - uncomplicated and easy going.  This was good because Hubby and I were watching BBC Sherlock and didn't need our wine to steal the show.

I drank this tonight!
Maison Bourron is mysterious, I cannot find any information on this elusive (real?) winery.  The Pink Pages (as I will call them) that lists all Provence producers doesn't show any sign of them.  Actually, this is a great site http://www.provencewineusa.com/getting-to-know-rose

Since this is most likely a co-op wine or possibly the Brigadoon of wineries, I will fill in some blanks. 
Grapes: Provence wines are generally blends of these red/black grapes; Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault and Tibouren (old old varietal).
Region: located in the South of France roughly between Avignon and Cannes.  There are many different sub-regions, the largest and least strict is what we have here in the glass Cotes de Provence.  It is the easternmost area of Provence and also has a few little pockets to the west, in the less interesting terroirs.  I say less interesting, but the whole region is pretty beautiful (hills, valleys, lavender fields, limestoney cliffs, you get the idea).
Style:Dry, crisp, mineral driven, beautiful aromatics.  This Maison Bourron is a cheapie version so it has echos of it's more prestigious counterparts.

How great is this little snippet from the Pink Pages, "Provence offers the lifestyle many stressed Americans dream of. It's an outdoor lifestyle, flavored with fresh local vegetables, seafood, and olive oil, and food-friendly local wines. People tend to live and eat outside, taking full advantage of their beautiful surroundings – historic villages, terraced hillsides, lush lavender fields, and wild hiking paths." Heck yeah, get yourself to Provence if at all possible!!


Maison Bourron Reserve, Cotes de Provence 2013
$10.99 (have seen as low as $9.99 and as high as $13.99)

color: watermelon
nose: medium aromatics, minerally, unripe watermelon
palate: dry, mineral, tart strawberry,

Verdict:  easy drinking, nice acidity, but not terribly complex.  Felt that it stung the tongue in a slightly unpleasant way.  Perhaps alcohol slightly too high.

 For $10 bucks you could do a lot worse.  A whole lot worse. If it were just you and Alexander H,  this would be a good choice to bring to a bbq or picnic where the wine doesn't have to be the centerpiece - let it be the 2nd or 3rd wine and you're good to go!  It's not the most interesting drink in the world, but it's not offensive by any means.

Saturday, July 5, 2014

30 Days of Rosé - an Exploration in Pink


LOVE rosés.  I am so happy to see that more and more people are loving them, too.  Wine stores are dedicating more space to them with pretty pink displays.  Wine lists are featuring rosé wines outside the summer months.  Having returned earlier this summer from Provence where I was hooked up with a veritable IV of rosé, I am glad that my addiction can continue.


Not only does rosé look pretty in the glass, it is really affordable (most available for under $20 a bottle), it's generally yummily aromatic, and with more and more producers bottling a rosé, we can really explore the world through this lovely style.


The challenge, I give myself (total hardship) is to drink rosés for the next 30 days.  Before I begin on this rosy journey with you all, I want to give you a little 411 on Rosé to make sure we're all on the same page. 


 Rosé Primer for all of your Pink Questions


How is it made?
Two major ways for quality pink- with red grapes through skin contact or saignée method:

Via  straight skin contact. Red grapes are picked, crushed and the juice and skins remain in contact for anywhere from several hours to about 3 days.  Skins are tossed before fermentation (unlike in red wine production where skins stay in contact). These grapes are destined to become rosé from their early days in the vineyard.  Let's say it's a Pinot Noir rosé - those Pinot Noir grapes will be treated differently in the vineyard, harvested at a different time than Pinot grapes that will be vinified red.  Result - skin-contact rosés tend to have more integrity and nuance.  

Saignée (Fr.bleeding) method - or I will call it BY-Product Method- this is where wine is bled off from red wine production before fermentation.  It's main purpose it to intensify the red, to add tannin & color because the volume of juice in the must is reduced, and the must involved in the maceration becomes more concentrated. It seems like this would have less integrity than the skin contact method, but I've tried some great rosés done in this way.


Is all Rosé Pepto Pink?
There are many colors of the rosé  rainbow - ranging from pale orangey onion skin (many Provence roses) to a bright clear red (think fruit punch)
But I don't like sweet wine
Don't worry, not all rosé  is sweet.  I know that most of you know that anyway, but 9.5 out of 10 roses are going to be dry.  They may be fruity with wonderful aromas of watermelon, cherry, and strawberry but it won't be sweet.  It may look like fruit punch, but it doesn't taste that way.
Sweet Rosé  - White Zinfandel, Rosé d'Anjou, White Merlot - anything labeled blush (rarer these days)

How do I pair food with Rosé
This is one of the top reasons why I love this style of wine... it is easily paired with food. 
  • Pair it with nothing - drink/guzzle it without food
  • Salads - salade nicoise, charred salmon atop greens, Caesar salad
  • Spice - can hold up to heat.  bring on the spicy chicken wings and curries
  • sandwiches - no one talks about pairing your Sammie with wine -- a great rosé will pair with your turkey and avocado on brioche.
  • Meats - pork loin = perfect (depending on the rub you might even take a darker rosé)  chicken of course.  duck?  of course!





Sunday, June 15, 2014

Say SI to Falanghina

Say SI to Falanghina

A Southern Italian white that you should be drinking now

This Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina del Sannio 2012 made it's way into my refrigerator and I've been enjoying it over the last two nights.  It held up on night #2.  Brava!

411: Falanghina is an ancient white grape of Greek origin and it's grown in the volcanic soil in Naples's province of Campagnia.   Jancis Robinson says it can also be referred to as Falanghina Greco (some of you may know and love another Campanian white called Greco di Tufo).

Falanghina is a mineral driven white with lovely floral and citrus components.
I would drink these young, but I'm sure there is a case for aging Falangine (plural?) because of the acidity.  At any rate, I would say that most of the wines we get in the under $20 category should be drunk max 2 years old. 

The Feudi Falanghina  was from the 2012 vintage, and I expected to detect some age (ie oxidation or loss of fruit), however, it was still quite bright and fresh.  The color was a mellow straw, and the nose was very aromatic and fresh.  There was a hint of orange peel, Meyer lemon, and melon.  On the palate, the flavors mirrored the nose, but there was also a crisp mineral sensation which paired really well with my curried chicken and avocado salad. 


Oh, and don't be afraid of mispronouncing this if you want to order it on a wine list.  It's pronounced Fa-lan-geeee-nuh.  I was having a lovely lunch with my parents at the ever amazing A Voce in New York City, and my Dad was a little tentative in asking the server for a glass, but the wonderful waiter didn't know how to pronounce it either - and they've got great training there, so just do your best and don't worry.  Point if you have to.  Don't let it stop you from exploring a new wine.  No one's judging you and if they are... they should be put in a pneumatic press!









Monday, February 20, 2012

How to Navigate a Terrible Winelist - My dinner at Peter Luger's Steakhouse

Last weekend David and I went to Peter Luger's Steakhouse in Great Neck, Strong Island with his sister and her husband.  Let me set the scene.  The place is packed.  Women are prancing around in jeggings, nude peep-toe heels and their furs.  The dining room looks like the interior of a Bavarian beer garden done up in Tudor style.  Old old waiters totter from table to table with sizzling plates of meaty objects.  The food menu is limited and simplistic aka: Steak for 2, Steak for 3 and Steak for 4.  The wine list was equally limited.  It was also populated with all of the big brand, boring, usual suspects; Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  A wine challege if ever I saw one.  

Incidentally, after this visit, I happend to hear a podcast where a sommelier made suggestions on how to order wine at a restaurant if you don't know much about wine.  He suggested to go straight for the Cabernet Sauvignon.  I couldn't disagree more.  If you're not used to a wine with tannin, you might not enjoy Cabernet Sauvignon (although it's generally a good accompaniment with steak - especially steak that has taken a butter bath like Luger's meat).  I didn't want to pay $80 for a boring California Cabernet.  I also didn't like being steered in that direction that Luger's obviously wanted it's patrons to go.  Of the say 40 wines on the menu - 20 of them are California Cabernets. 

Here's what I did:

In general, if you want to pay around $50, don't know a lot about different wine growing regions, and you find yourself at a restaurant and the wine list looks Luger-like lame here are a few guidelines:
  1. choose a non-Cabernet Sauvignon varietal in California. - I considered ordering a Merlot for a moment.  This is a good option especially since Merlots have to try extra hard to be taken seriously STILL.
  2. choose a Cabernet or Cab-blend in another Country. - I considered a Casa Lapostolle Cabernet from Chile for a while - that was exactly $50. In my price range.  I also thought about getting the St. Emillion  (Merlot heavy) from Bordeaux, but thought it might be a touch earthy for the collective palate at the table.
  3. choose a bottle from a value country - Spain, Argentina, Australia, Chile.  These are all great choices of countries to check out on a wine list.  These countries tend to over-deliver for their price.  The mark up won't be as high - the restaurant is marking up the higher volume wines - in this case California Cab.
In the end, I chose the option behind door #3 and ordered a Penfold's Bin 28, a smooth and tasty little number for $55 ($25 retail).  It fit the collective palate, budget, and went well with our steaks.  I feel like I deserve a medal - maybe that's why I let myself be talked into the sub-par struedel for desert.

Sunday, February 12, 2012

From My Cellar (okay, my living room) Kay Brothers Hillside Shiraz 2005

When I went to Australia in 2007 I visited iconic Kay Brothers in McClaren Vale.  I splurged on a bottle of their Amery Vineyards Hillside Shiraz 2005.  David and I cracked this open the other night with some beef stroganoff and it was fantastically tasty. 

Everyone in the wine idustry (indulge me to generalize) has been down on the the Syrah grape from Down Under.  They say it's a dying category. Sales reps can't sell it.  Wine stores can't sell it.  True, there is a ridiculous amount of boring mass produced Shiraz in the $8-$15 area.  However, when you drink a Shiraz from an iconic vineyard like this one from Kay Brothers ($45), you'll see what a shame it is that Australian sections around the country are dwindling.  These are wineries that are making wines that express the unique terroir of their vineyards and producing truthful and quality wines.

Kay Brothers is located in Australia's beautiful and tourist friendly McClaren Vale.  It was founded in the late 1800's and today it is the oldest winery in McClaren Vale still family owned. The juice in the bottle we drank is from their Hillside Vineyard.  It's aged in oak for a little over 2 years and then it waits for you to drink it.


Color: rich burgundy
Nose: fragrant and spicy. ripe with currants, plums, chocolate, coffee and baking spices.  Just got better as it opened up.
Palate: velvety and full in the mouth.  flavors mirroring the nose; roasted fruits, plum and boysenberry, chocolate covered coffee beans.  Sweet tannins and long finish. 

Analysis:  This is a smoking good bottle of wine.  I'm sorry I only bought one bottle.

Insider's note (you can find a ton of great high end Aussie wines with reduced prices - snatch them up - they're more than likely ready to drink and delicious). Drink high end Aussie wines from places like McClaren Vale and the Victoria, and you'll be a believer.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Finger Lakin' Good! Heart and Hands Sparkling Rose and Red Tail Ridge Rose

I spent a wonderful weekend in New York state's Finger Lakes region with David and two of our foodie and wine minded pals; Frank and Julie.  We stayed at the AMAZINGLY gorgeous Aurora Inn directly on Lake Cayuga.  I won't bore you with details, but let's just say there was some tandem bike riding and booze fueled Scrabble games!

Although we enjoyed ourselves, I feel like Finger Lakes wines don't get a lot of respect among wine drinkers.  There are a handful of wineries like Dr. Loosen and Weimar that can be found in a lot of NYC stores, but mostly you don't see a whole lot of selection on the shelves.  Heart & Hands Wine Company and Red Tail Ridge are two wineries that are relatively young and they are doing some interesting things.

Heart & Hands is right up the road from the Aurora Inn in Aurora New York.  This is the eastern shore of Lake Cayuga.  The winery is run by and young couple; Tom and Susan Higgins with their sweet Swiss Mountain dog; Fion.  This is a relatively small production bottling some 1,500 cases of Pinot Noir and Riesling.  Tom is the winemaker and he started the winery 3 years ago in 2008, but is by no means new to the industry.  Boy knows his Pinot, he worked at Calera over in California.  That stuff is GOOD!

I particularly enjoyed their sparkling wine a 2009 Brut Rose of Pinot Noir.  The package is snazzy and the bubbles were very tasty.  They are producing this in the traditional method where the 2nd fermentation takes place in the bottle. The price was nice, too at $25.  I thought there was a pleasant toastiness and a delicate aroma of fresh strawberries and cranberry that was very refreshing. Very easy to drink a bottle of this alone... beware!

The next rose that I tried and loved was the Red Trail Ridge Rose of Pinot Noir 2010.  This comes in a smart looking bottle too.  This is tapered and lean and it seems to match the feel of the wine which is fruit punch colored, but crisp, elegant and minerally on the palate.  Fragrant notes of strawberry and bing cherry hit the nose, but this is a gorgeous dry rose - perfect for sipping with friends, lakeside, before dinner... maybe I'm speaking from experience.

Red Tail Ridge Winery, located on the western shore of Lake Seneca; is owned and operated by Mike Schnelle and Nancy Irelan, a husband and wife team.  They started the winery 6 years ago in 2005.  They are also accompanied by their two working dogs;  Shazaam (German Shepher) and Scooter (Yellow Lab).  They actually have official titles of  Winemaker Management and Pond Inspector and Mud Puddle Assessment respectively.

Red Tail concentrates on quality Reisling and Pinot Noir, but they're also doing some Chardonnay and some cool varietals like Dornfelder and Teroldego.  On another impressive note, they are LEED certified.  A very difficult green certification to come by.  It's all of these things that make you feel better about yourself and the environment as you sip away!!
Heart and Hands Brut Rose: $25
Red Tail Ridge Rose 2010: $20

Monday, April 25, 2011

Wine Drinking for People with Commitment Issues - Tasting Room Flights Delivered to Your Door

It's difficult for me to make a decision about somethings.  I'm a Gemini (at least I think I am still in spite of the Egyptian Snake Toter; Ophiuchus) In college I had 2 majors and 2 minors.  I love buffets.  I have countless pairs of black pants and black skirts, and I usually get Harvest Mix (with the pumpkins AND Indian corn) because I want more variety than just candy corn.  


When it comes to drinking wine, sometimes I can't commit to just one bottle.  Maybe I just feel like a glass or a half a glass.  Half bottles are fantastic, but the selection isn't always great and they're not always a good price.  When I bought an e-coupon for $50 towards wine samplers... my dilemma was answered.  I didn't have to make a choice!!
Tastingroom.com is a site that features wineries offering the public their samples in 50ml bottles.  50ml is just shy of two ounces.  An average restaurant pour is five ounces. You can also by big-girl bottles of the wine too.  The focus is mainly California, Washington and Oregon driven, but they're starting to get some international selections too.

The 50ml taste allows the casual (and professional) drinker an opportunity to sample a wine before committing to an entire bottle.  Each kit comes with a little tasting sheet and allows space for you to make comments so you might remember what you've sipped.  50 ml is the same format as "nips" of vodka, rum, and gin come if you've ever gotten a drink on an airplane.


Of course when it came to ordering, I couldn't just choose one flight. I ordered three!  One was a sampling of Pinot Noirs from California, one was a taste of Sonoma (red and white wines) and the other was a more focused view showcasing a Napa winery that I was not familiar with called Ladera.  The regular sized bottles of the wines I tried ranged in price from $18-$70. The samplers ranged from $24.99-$29.99.

When my samplers arrived it was so much fun!! I lined up my little bottles, twisted the little caps, and made my assessments.  Two ounces really is enough to decide if you like the wine or not.  There were some wines that I thought were really great, and there were some that weren't really my style. All in all it was a great experience to be able to try so many different wines in the comfort of my apartamento without having to waste any wine or pay a lot for such a selection.
The only bad part is that the wine will age faster in that tiny bottle, so be mindful of the drink-by date stamped on them.   Also,  I felt like a bit of a wine-o with all of my empty nip-sized bottles.  I will just have to endure the judgement from my neighbors when then see me (more likely David) taking down the trash.


Check them out - they're always offering some good deal or free shipping.  Samplers start at $14.99.
www.tastingroom.com


Friday, January 21, 2011

Adopt a Maligned Grape: Pinotage

There are a lot of Pinotage poo poo'ers out there.  I don't judge them too harshly, there are a lot of bad mass market Pinotages giving the good ones a bad name.  This oft maligned grape is under constant critique.  Some say that at its worst, it tastes like rubber tires (tyres in South Africa) band-aids, paint thinner and/or rubbing alcohol.  I've found some beautiful Pinotages that have complex aromas of brambly fruits, red cherry, earthiness, barn-yardy notes and even a hint of an exotic and sassy note that I will simply call: Animale.

What is Pinotage?
Pinotage is a crossing (not a hybrid) of two grapes of the same species, in this case of Vitis Vinifera.  All of the famous grapes of quality are Vitis Vinifera and you know them: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Chardonnay, etc. 
Made official in 1925, Pinotage is the love child between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  Mother Pinot Noir is from a good family of high social standing - she's aloof, moody, elegant and delicate, but can be warm and smell like cherries. Pappa Cinsault, a decidedly less popular grape from humbler southern beginnings, but sturdy, strapping, earthy, he brings darker richer fruits to the party. It's a little Lady Chatterly-esque, no?

Pinotage has become the signature grape of South Africa.  That's not hard to believe since it was created there.  Pinotages can range in price from $8.99 upwards of $50.  The two I have listed below are in the under $25 category and they just might turn you into a Pinotage lover, or at the very least, pique your interest.  

Pinotage has a wide range of typical aromas and tastes, but basically, you can expect something that is a little like Pinot Noir (cherry, strawberry, spice) and Cinsault (blackberry, black cherry, earthy) with the addition of an exotic element we have already touched upon that I call Animale. Cabernet lovers will be drawn to the sheer power of the wines, and if you are a Shiraz enthusiast, the funky spice and boldness will appeal to you.  Pinotage is NOT for the faint of heart!  Check with your doctor before popping the cork.

Doolhof "Dark Lady" Pinotage 2009, from Wellington South Africa really seduced me.  The more I smelled this, the more interesting it became.  I won't lie to you, at first sniff I was afraid.  There was that initial funky junk that I often smell with Pinotage.  It is so distinct and so polarizing.   It challenging to describe, but just think black strap molasses on a hot rubber tire.  Once that dissipated, aromas of burnt molasses and blackberry with macerated strawberry came into play.  There was a spicy note too, of clove and nutmeg. After a little more time, chocolaty aromas evolved.  It was really spectacular to see how much this wine changed in the glass minute after minute. 

Another one of my faves is the Warwick Pinotage.  They have mastered the art of making a fruity spicy Pinotage that has prominent aromas of Bing cherry and old bay spice instead of the inside of rubber tire (or tyre if you're in South Africa).  This a full bodied beauty that has the bright red fruit that is expertly co-mingled with this earthy Animale.  The result is a very interesting and almost intellectual wine.  It keeps challenging your senses.  For me, that is a very agreeable position to be in.  I do dislike a boring wine!

Dark Lady Pinotage 2009
color: dark ruby
nose: initially burnt and charred notes, moving into blackberry and strawberry and then spiced leather and chocolate
palate: smooth and rich, full bodied and velvety

approx retail: $17.99

Sunday, January 16, 2011

A Rye Story: McKenzie Rye, Sazerc Rye and Russell's 6 Year Reserve

With the increase in popularity of brown spirits and my shopping addiction,  it's no wonder that we have about 6 different Rye's in our home bar.  Rye the preferred spirit in our house cocktail; the Manhattan.  Today, I take 3 different Ryes for 3 different reasons to make a boozy evaluation:

1) Sazerac - the classic
2) Russell's Reserve - 6 Year - the aged, with a big company backing
3) McKenzie - the newcomer - artisinal small batch spirit

What is rye?
We've all had rye bread and pumpernickel bread, no?  This is the same grain that we are talking about.  Bourbon is a corn-heavy spirit (at least 51% of the mash must be corn), and Rye is a rye grain based spirit. Rye bread is a little spicier and and sharper than corn bread, so it's no surprise that Rye spirits have a distinct spice to them and are less sweet tasting than Bourbons.  After distillation, Rye must be age in new oak barrels.  It must be aged for at least 2 years if it is to be called "Straight Rye Whiskey".
Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey 90 Proof
The Classic
This is the first Rye that I ever purchased.  It claims to be have been America's first branded cocktail; the Sazerac, which is enjoying a revival thanks to Rye-minded bar folk on both sides of the zinc. From it's New Orleans beginnings in the late 1800's, Sazerac has grown in size to be a part of a sizable company that also owns Buffalo Trace, Rain Vodka, Firefly Vodka,  Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon, and Chi Chi's cocktail mixers (I know my readers will know and love that last one).  The crispness of the Sazerac makes it a fantastic partner for a cocktail.  This classic has staying power.
color: light amber
nose: pleasantly and subtly, aromatic, heather honey, slightly fruity, spice, light caramel
palate: crisp and light, spiced caramel, candied orange peel
cost: $24.99



Russell's Reserve Rye - 6 Year Old Kentucky Straight Rye -   90 Proof
The Designer Aged
Made by our friends over at Wild Turkey in Kentucky this is a smooth and unctuous Rye.  There is certainly the familiar Rye spice, but there is a distinct richness that differs from the Sazerac (for better or worse).   Russell's is a straight rye, so it's been aged for more than 2 years - 6 years in this case.  I know we love to hate big corporations, but because they are Wild Turkey, they have the luxury of making this pet project.  Because it's small batch distilled, it's time consuming.  They claim to hand select the rye and slow ferment it; two practices that are costly.   The long term aging has taken a little of the raw spiciness out, but it is undeniably a Rye and you could drink this puppy straight (or with a few Fabbri cherries).
color: light amber
nose: smoky caramel, clove and other baking spices
palate: smooth rich and luscious - golden caramel
$34.99


McKenzie Rye Whiskey 91 Proof
The Indie Small Batch
This Rye is from the Finger Lakes area of upstate New York made using local grains from area farms.  They produce some other spirits, but this one seems to be their most popular in NYC. They are true craft distillers, making their booze in small batches with a traditional copper pot still (this one was custom made in Germany - and you can allegedly see the gleam from the highway) without the addition of commercial enzymes.  They finish the wine in sherry casks (we looooove sherry!)  http://www.fingerlakesdistilling.com/. The McKenzie had a woodier, vanilla aroma and was as smooth, powerful and luscious (similar to the Russell Reserve) on the palate with tons of butterscotch.  For my New York area readers, we can drink a somewhat local spirit, and for all us, we can support an artisinal endeavor!  It's a win-win because this Rye is really delicious.

color: honeyed amber
nose: spice, molasses, vanilla, brown sugar, praline
palate: woody spice, smooth butterscotch finish
$34.99


Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 and Sharecroppers Pinot Noir 2008 - One Tagine and two delicious Wines

The wonderful part about food and wine pairing is that there isn't one true answer.  There are certainly better pairings than others and some that don't work at all.  Sometimes two very different wines will elevate and compliment the same dish in two very different ways.  There are some classic pairings that I won't mess with like Foie Gras and Sauternes or Dark Chocolate and Port.

Our sassy friend, Judy,  prepared a tasty chicken tagine and had several amazing wines on the table.  I love dinners like that - it truly appeals to my non-committal side.  I can have several small glasses of different wines instead of one (or 3) glasses of the same wine.  The two wines that were winners for me were the Merry Edwards barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2009 and the Owe Roe Sharecropper's Pinot Noir 2008 (my contribution to the dinner party, heh heh).

Merry Edwards is such an icon that I think I felt honored to be drinking her wine in the first place.  She's been making wine for 40 years or something impressive like that.  She makes world class Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.  This Sauvignon Blanc is made with almost half of the grapes coming from 30+ year old vines (ANCIENT for Sonoma) in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma.  They get some gorgeous fog and cool breezes that you can almost taste in the wine. She barrel ferments the wine and allows lees aging, so there is a smoothness and a bit of a fuller body to it compared to a wine that fermented in stainless steel.

I was drinking this before the tagine and then when everyone switched to red, I had the rest of the bottle to myself (good party scam).  There is a lovely lush Meyer lemon nose that is echoed on the palate.  There's something akin to a honeyed grapefruit with bright minerality on the palate too.  I really enjoyed the lusciousness and it really stood up to the chicken thigh and couscous.

When I had drained the Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc I reached for the Oregon Pinot Noir, an Owen Roe bottling called Sharecropper's from the Willamette Valley.  The minerality and cherry cola flavors really brought out the richness of the dark chicken meat and made the cherry studded couscous sing.

Owen Roe is a great winery in the Pacific Northwest that specializes in grapes that grow best in theWillamette Valley of Oregon and the Yakima Valley in Washington.  Sharecropper's sources its fruit from the Willamette Valley.  This particular bottle had a gorgeous aromatic nose full of wild strawberries, cherry cola and delicate earth.  It was bright on the palate with more cherries and spice and had a lengthy finish.
Verdict: Drink multiple wines with dinner to hedge your bets and check out these two wineries.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2009: $30.00
Sharecropper's Pinot Noir 2008: $24.00