Wait! Wait! Rosé Me! A Confession to Drinking Rosé After Labor Day!

The leaves are changing color; they're falling on the ground, The pumpkins are out.  Candy corn is on display at Rite Aid.  Today, even though there was a nip in the air and I wore a sweater; I wore my open toe sandals. I saw some people on the subway doing the same and smile a conspiritorial smirk.  We hardly had a summer!  I'm not letting go that easily either!  One way of not letting go is drinking rosé.

Ok, it might not be sweltering out.  You may have lost your tan.  You might not be in the south of France, the Hamptons, or poolside; but you can still drink pink wine.  It's like wearing white after Labor Day - it's okay to drink rosé after September! That's right!! You can drink it all year long.  Drink it at Thanksgiving - it pairs better with Turkey than Zinfandel and all those other big reds magazines would have you believe.

Actually, now is a great time to buy rosé.  A lot of retailers are freaked out that they still have inventory. They might feel like discounting them.  I just bought a couple of Roses that I plan on sipping whilst wearing my flops and shades. , Domaine La Croix Belle's Grenache-Syrah from Languedoc, Calera's Pinot Noir rosé from California, Rizzardi's Bardolino Chiaretto from Italy.  All of these wines were around $10 even though they used to be around $15-$18. I love a bargain. 

Rosé has the reputation in the US as being a seasonal wine.  This is a huge leap from 5-10 years ago when rosé were only thought of as sweet wines. Now, most of the rosé in stores (in the Northeast anyway) are on the dry side.  It's tricky for importers, distributors, and retailers to calculate how much rosé to either carry or bring in.   Everyone is terrified of being stuck with older vintages of rosé. You probably saw 2008 rosé in your wine stores.  There may have been an odd 2007 - but you'd better believe that your retailer was getting a great deal. However, even though we drink rosés young, fresh 'n fruity; some of them can age for a few years if they are made well. 

What is rosé? Some of you oldies might still call it Blush?  Well stop it! Don't make me cringe!  It's rosé.  If you want to speak Italian, call it a  rosato.  If you are really cool and drinking a Pinot Noir rosé, maybe you'll refer to it as a vin gris  Rosé wine is made from the juice of red grapes.  The color is from the contact with the grape skins.  Some times it is quite minimal - like hours, sometimes it can be a few days.  The longer the contact with the skins, the deeper the color and more taninns the wine will show. Sometimes Roses can be an orangy salmon color (just like Champagne rosé) and sometimes they can be a very light but intense violet. I am a sucker for the ones that look like fruit punch.  Thank you Scaldabrone rosé from Antinori (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah). 

Buonchristi's small production Rose of Syrah is amazingly full-bodied and spicy.   I bought a case of Lechthaler's Lagrein Rosato.  I still have about 6 bottles left.  I'm not worried.  The acidity is so good that the wine will last for a couple of years.

Don't be a fad follower.  If you like your rosé, don't be afraid to drink it year round.  Yes, rosé tastes amazing with a salade nicoise while dining al fresco - however, that is just ONE pairing.  Rosé can give a warmth that can give you comfort during your next Nor'easter.

Crying Out Loud!! Weepy Italian Grapes! Luciano Landi Lacrima di Morro d'Alba 2007

Have you ever taken one of those tests that try to determine what grape you would be based on your personality?  If you are moody and reclusive then you'd be a Pinot Noir.  If you are sassy and dynamic maybe you'd be Syrah.  Well if you are Italian, fruity and floral with a tendancy to cry; you'd be Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.      What's that you say?? You've never heard of that grape?  Lacrima di Morro d'Alba. Quite a mouthful!  I've provided a map here for you so you can see that it's the commune of Morro d'Alba located in the province of Ancona... Le Marche!! Yes, blog followers - you know this Central Italian region!!  It's home to Verdicchio.    It's also casa dolce casa for some pretty interesting and oft overlooked red wines.  Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is just one of them.  Some of you have heard Alba in relation to Piedmont like Barbera D'Alba.  This is a different Alba all together.  This is a different Alba.

Lacrima means tear (boo-hoo not riiiiip) it Italian.  No one is sure if this alludes to the tear shaped bunch that the grapes form, (I have a picture up there, what do you think?)  or the driblets of juice that run out of the ripe grapes could resembles tears as well. That is the thought behind another tearful, cry-baby, Italian varietal in the south called Lacryma Christi.  Whatever the folklore, it makes for one tasty vino. 

Once you have smelled Lacrima di Morro d'Alba (from now on LDMDA) you will always remember it.  LDMDA is distinct and difficult to pin down. It is a fresh and fruit driven wine with very aromatic qualitites.  As I have been reading I see a lot of people compare it to Gewurtztraminer. I see where they are going with it.  There is a rose-petal quality in the wine.  It is also reminiscent of Gamay with it's fruity/floral dynamic in its youth.  I love the saturated purple color of it and the intriguing nose.  Oh, it's also pretty lip-smackingly delicious in an uncomplicated and perfectly satisfying way.  It was awarded DOC status in 1985.

One website says that it should be paired with stuffed pigeon, tripe with beans, and tortino di ciccioli but alas I was on a buiness trip and only had Panera's black bean soup.  It wasn't a difficult feat to outshine that sludgy soup.  It certianly brightened up my dinner even senza the tripe accommpaniment. 

This is really a fantastic grape to experience.  If you see it in the store, snatch it up!  I grabbed mine off the shelf for a mere $16.99.  Well worth it.  Since I have been out there in the northeast peeking into various wine stores, there is definetly a shortage of Italian wines from Le Marche and Umbria.  I know i am senstive because I was just there, but these wine store owners only think people want to buy wine from Piedmont and Tuscany.   We have to show them that we want some variety!! Si si si!!

color - grape juice purple

nose - rose petals, orange peel, blueberry pie filling, cinnamon, grape soda
palate - raspberry, blueberry, boysenberry

Pinot Blanc - Always the Bridesmaid - Never the Bride. Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2008 - Tifenbrunner Pinot Bianco 2008

I am always on the hunt for aromatic white wines.  When I worked in the store, so many people were just looking for a Chardonnay or a Sauvignon Blanc.  Not that these grapes don't make amazing wines... but come on!! Step out of your comfort zone.  I would always feel as if I had scored a point for the underdog grapes everytime some Westchesterer came in looking for a California Chardonnay and left with a Torrontes, a Pinot Bianco, or a Gruner Veltliner in his or her shopping bag.  Yay!

If you come across a Pinot Blanc in your wine store adventures, pick one up.  You are most likely to find them in the Alsace area, department, aisle, shelf, or nook.  I suppose it depends on your store.   You may also see one if your store is progressive enough to have an Austrian section -  it may be listed as Weissburgunder on the label.  Don't be afraid of that Teutonic name - say it how it's spelled AND look at you  -- now you know how to say Pinot Blanc in German!  Actually it is White Burgundy (no not Chardonnay - smartie pants).  There are some outstanding Pinot Blancs from Alto Adige and the Veneto too - they will be labeled as Pinot Bianco.  Ah ha!  Now you speak Italian!

Let me give you a little Pinot Blanc history!  As the name suggests Pinot Blanc was born in France and as its German name suggests, from Bourgogne.  It is a mutation of Pinot Gris which is also a mutation of Pinot Noir.  Now there is very very very very very little Pinot Blanc grown in Burgundy, the majority really is in Alsace and Alto Adige.  That is why I have two examples here from those two regions. 

In general, Pinot Blanc is always a secondary grape - of secondary importance...never the star.  I think that is such a terrible fate. Even my WSET book says that it is a white grape of not great importance.  So I'm thinking UNDERSTUDY!  BRIDESMAID!!  sort of the Jennifer Anniston of grapes.  No I've gone too far there, I really do like Pinot Blanc.  It is so aromatic - and it can range from quince and pineapple to white peach and washed pebbles (nice one, eh!).   It is usually stainless steel fermented and that really lets the fruit and minerality shine along with a beautiful acidity.  There are Pinot Blancs that are very ageworthy.  Hofstatter from Alto Adige does a single vineyard old vines Pinot - it's amazing. 

These two are great to taste side by side because we can really see the regional differences.  Alsace is sunny and shielded by large amounts of rainfall from the Vosges mountains.  There is usally a richesse of flavor in these wines that contributes to their unique Alsatian quality. They may also be higher in alcohol.  Alto Adige on the other hand is ALTO indeed.  Sometimes called Sudtirol - this region is situated near the Italian Alps in Northeastern Italy.  Most of the better vineyards are on south facing slopes, but it is generally a bit chillier up there so you will see a crisper, more aromatic style.

Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2008, Alsace, France
nose - quince, lime, orange water, white peach
palate - mineral, quince, lemon/lime

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Bianco 2008 Alto Adige, Itlay
nose - subdued pineapple, lime
palate - crisp, mineral, lime rind, Meyer lemon

Saucy Saucers! Le Cigare Volante Red 2004 - Bonny Doon Vineyard

I had a half bottle of the Bonny Doon Cigare Volant years ago – before I started thinking of myself as oh so knowledgeable. I loved it. I enjoyed it so much that I thought now that so many years have passed and my palate is oh so sophisticated, I will probably think it’s pedestrian. I didn’t. I liked it. I liked it a lot. I liked it so much, that when I saw the Rose version at Spec’s in Houston – I convinced my father to pick up a bottle. I think my mother and I drank most of it before he could get a sip.  The red is smooth and rich and luscious. It's big, but it's really balanced. It was great to sip by itself, but it was even better with the boeuf that we had for dinner.

The Cigare Volant is done in a Southern Rhone style. That means it’s a blend of several different grapes that are commonly grown in The southern Rhone Valley. We’ve looked at a cotes du rhone in this blog, but some of the other fancy pants wines from the area are the whopper Chateauneuf du Pape, Gignondas, Lirac, and Vacqueras. The wines from that area are full bodied spice houses with luscious fruit and earthiness. Some of the most common red grapes are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Carignan.

The breakdown of the Cigare Volant Red is:

38% grenache, 35% syrah, 12% mourvèdre, 8% carignane, 7% cinsault

The name? Well that’s a play on a law that was passed by the Village of Chateauneuf in 1954 that prohibits flyaing saucers (cigares volantes en francais!) from landing in the fields. It’s hilarious that they would even think to get such a law passed, apparently the folks at Bonny Doon thought it hysterical enough to take their parady and their respect of the wines one step further. So you see the lable is adorable – the top of the screw cap (yay screw cap!) has a little Alien on it. Sometimes a gimmicky wine DOES taste good!

Bonny Doon is located in Santa Cruz, California.  The man behind the beast is an irreverent jokster named Randall Grahm.  Apparently he is called many things.  The Rhone Ranger and God are just a few.  As you can tell, he has an amazing sense of humor and I think that is an invaluable quality to bring to the wine world. His wines look approachable, and they taste approachable without being unsubtle.   He moved out there to produce the best Pinot Noir imaginable and ended up realizing that the Southern Rhone varietals and Italian varietals were really what the region lent itself to. Sounds like a pretty awesome guy!

Here's what Bonny Doon says about their wine:

vibrant, fruity and floral notes contrasted against a denser, darker core rarely seen in preceding Cigares. The first wafting aromas suggest freshly warmed black raspberry conserve, rose petals, black licorice and garrigue. The grenache is hinted at by way of the bright puffs of raspberriocity and cherry liqueur, with the syrah and mourvèdre showing their tendency towards dominant density - laying down thick, recumbent panes of flavor vaguely suggesting spice, meatiness, and a strong expression of the minerality we have been working so hard to mine, as it were, in our high-flying flagship.

check them out on Facebook or their website:
http://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/

Get on the Porch!! Swig's Southern Style Lemonade Liqueur!

I was in Houston recently and I could not resist a trip to Spec's. If you have been to Spec's you know what a great place it is. If you haven't - let me tell you - they have some of the best wine prices I've seen, but more than that is the selection they have - especially in spirits and especially at this particular Spec's in downtown H-town.

I am definitely like a kid in a candy store when I step in there... who am I kidding... I still love going to candy stores as an adult! It's exciting to stop in there - there are shelves of glassware and decanters, a gourmet food section filled with all sorts of cheeses and oils and goodies. The spirits section was particularly engaging this time. There was an apple pie liqueur,mint bitters (yes I purchased some), several different flavors of Firefly Sweet Tea Vodka (now in Mint, Lemon, and Peach) a rich Chocolate liqueur from Piedmont. I wanted to buy everything. Luckily, my father was there to somewhat keep me in line informing me that the cart was filling up quickly and asking me "do you have room in your suitcase for all of that?". Of course I didn't an a lot would inevitably end up in their liquor cabinet.

One bottle that made the cut was a Swig's Southern Style Lemonade Liqueur. It's in this great glass bottle with a rubber stopper. All in all, it makes a clean fresh-looking package. It looks very olde-tyme-ey - very country time-ey. Although it really smells like limoncello, it doesn't have that neon yellow look - it is really the color of lemonade. Also, it's not a thick or cloying taste. There is a nice balance of sweet and tart that is an attribute of any good lemonade.

The label suggests enjoying it on the rocks "on a hot summer day" or mixing it with Sweet Tea vodka for a sort of Arnold Palmer. Just the fact that this product references Sweet Tea Vodka sealed the deal for me. How many people outside of South Carolina and the South in general are up on Sweet Tea Vodka (besides you my readers, because I know you read my earlier post about it).

Okay so you're dying to know what it tastes like.
color: lemonade!!!
nose: lemon, cane sugar, alcohol
palate: sugared lemon, lemon peel

I took their advice and mixed it with some Sweet Tea Vodka, then I added some Lemon-Lime Seltzer, and some Strega for a Arnold Palmieri. I think that next I will experiment by adding some Maraschino Liqueur for a sort of Pink Lemonade. The possibilities are endless - let's hope the bottle will last me into the Fall.

Check it out at http://www.swigswig.com/

Azienda Fongoli Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso Reserva -

When I was researching my trip to Italy, everywhere I read people described Umbria as quiet, remote, difficult to travel to by train, and understated. Next to it's flashy and popular sister Tuscany, I can see why my friend Rachel (pictured here with me) calls Umbria the "New Hampshire of Italy". I found it charming and rustic, stunning and inviting... but then again I feel that way about most of Italy.

Apparently the Etruscans were obsessed with keeping this concept of "living in the shadow" alive, as even the name Umbria derives from ombra meaning shadow. At any rate, Umbria is a land-locked region. It's hugged by Tuscany to the north and west, Le Marche and the Appenine to the east, and Lazio (Rome home) flanks the south. It's literally in the center on Itlay - il cuore verde d'Italia. It is full of medieval hilltop towns like Assissi, Perugia, Spoleto, and Montefalco. The countryside flows with rolling hills dotted with olive groves and vines. Thanks to those rolling hills there is no shortage of micro-climates.

When in Umbs recently, we stayed in the hill topper of Montefalco in a chic hotel right in the central piazza. We found this gem at the recommendation of my friends Brian Dore and Maria Gabrielle Landers, who run a concierge service for personalized experiences in Umbria and all of Italy (http://www.conciergeinumbria.com/). They were awesome - they recommended the hotel and the restaurant (Alchemista, which happened to be the best place we ate on the trip) AND a visit to an amazing winery - FONGOLI!!! http://www.fongoli.com/. Fongoli is not imported to the US at this very moment, but hopefully that will change soon. All the same, we felt like we were getting an amazing personal experience...oh did I mention that we were given a guided tour and tasting by Angelo (grandson) and a 4 course succulent lunch by Anna - his radiant mother (see photos). Toasted bread with their estate's own olive oil, risotto al sagrantino, blueberry crostata. I happily digress...

Angelo and his beautiful wife! Our lovely hosts!

We tasted all of their wines. and I loved them all. The Grechetto (crisp white wine) and their passito of Sagrantino (sweet red wine) were fabulous, but these following two are my preferiti preferiti!! This first one is the signature grape of the area...the reason Montefalco was awarded the DOCG status for this grape --- Sagrantino di Montefalco. Sagrantino is awesome - it is not super super tannic and it has a smooth spiciness. Producers like Fongoli are keeping their Sagrantino true to varietal and true to the region with the perfect balance of rustic-ness, spice, and fruit. The color is rich dark garnet, the aromas are of spicy cranberry, plum and raspberry, and it is velvety and rich on the palate. Everyone in the area will make this same claim - but these grapes are really hand picked (see the picture I took of a bunch of Fongoli's Sagrantino grapes at the top of the page).

The second wine that I love is Fongoli's Rosso di Montefalco Riserva - this is a blend of Sagrantino, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Barbera. First of all - I never even thought that Rosso di Montefalco was a possibility - I've never seen it. Well, the Fongolis are not the only ones who make this - but they do make a fantastico one. You get the richness and the depth from the Sagrantino, the rustic spiciness from the Sangiovese, a smoothness from the Merlot and a ripe cherry fruitiness from the Barbera. On the nose there is a sweet and sour cherry aroma with rich berry fruit, the palate is overflowing with berries and subtle spice and more cherry. It is so full bodied and gorgeous!

The Fongolis were so lovely and unpretentious and welcoming. They really made us feel like we were a part of their family and that was so special...because I've always wanted to be a part of wine-making family. A gal can dream!!!

Some of the wines we enjoyed during our gourmet lunch!

Rachel and me with LA MAMA e Cuoca, Anna

O! Verdicchio! Refreshing Vino Bianco from Sartarelli - Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC

Sartarelli Verdicchio

One of the highlights of my recent trip to Le Marche was a visit to the Sartarelli winery. In general, this region does not get a lot of attention. Everyone seems to flock to Tuscany if they are interested in Central Italy. Le Marche is pannino'ed between the dramatic Appenine mountain range and the stunning Adriatic sea. There is plenty of hilly countryside between the two.

Sartarelli Vineyards

Verdicchio is a much maligned grape from a much maligned region. It used to be jug wine in bottles shaped like fish for goodness sake. Patrizio and Donatella Sartarelli had a huge mano in giving Verdicchio the respect it deserves. They only grow this grape and you an really experience Verdiccio at its best by tasting through their 4 wines.

Verdicchio grapes in Tralivio vineyard

Verdicchio in general is a crisp, refreshing white wine. There can be zesty citrus notes and also a blanched almond quality. Verdicchio is grown throughout Le Marche, but the undisputed champion of the wine is from the DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. This is located due west of coastal Ancona in the beautiful hills around Jesi (pronounced Yes-eeee - not Jessss-eee like I was referring to it as all week!). Legally you can blend in Malvasia and Trebbiano. As I mentioned, Le Marche is on the Adriatic and it's no accident that this wine is a perfect companion to mussels, oysters, and calimari... I could go on and on and on....

I was so excited to visit Le Marche and Sartarelli in particular. At the store, I've been putting bottles of Sartarelli into people's hands each day. Turning them on to something a little different than the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or the Chablis that they came in for gives me great satisfaction. It's like the rush you get when you wean someone of White Zinfandel. I have converted dozens. I wanted to see where the magic happened. My friends Aubra and Rachel were travelling in Italy with me too. We made it to Sartarelli exactly an hour late thanks to our misleading GPS system who fought us the entire trip. The good news is that the detour gave us a better idea of the region. The countryside is undulating and there are beautiful hilltop towns (one detour was aptly named Montebellina). There are olive groves and vineyards and a slight taste of the sea in the air. We were there on a beautiful clear day and it made me fall in love with Italy all over again.

Enough of the romance! Donatella Sartarelli in her elegant raw silk dress greeted us with kisses and promptly passed us into the hands of her amazing husband and winemaker Patrizio. He took us around to the different vineyards and showed us the grapes. The picture of the Verdiccio grapes is from the Tralivio vineyards. They are trained in the Guyot style. This allows them to get the drying sea breezes that fends off mold and rot. Also you can see the bunches that are formed - they have "ears" on either side. That's typical for Verdicchio and apparently that's how you want them to look.

Here's me and Patrizio at the Travlio vineyards. Tralivio meaning tra gli olivetti --- among the olive trees. Not suprisingly, Sartarelli also produces some pretty fantastic olive oil.

He took us to the Tralivio vineyards and then over to the Balciana vineyards where the oldest vines are growing grapes for their highest level Verdicchio ($50 retail). Amazing! Patrizio drove us UP to that vineyard - no cars allowed! He did pause and rolled down the window, and urged us to pluck some blackberries off a nearby bush. I love Italy. Back at the ranch, we were given a tour of fermenting tanks and the stainless steel tanks. All of the wines are aged and fermented in stainless steel. Then the best part -- the tasting! It was such a treat to sit down and taste with the winemaker. I love the wines of course and have so much respect for this family - but to see the pride and love in Patrizio's face as he regarded each wine and tasted it. That was a fabulous experience.

Rachel and Patrizio at the winery overlooking his vines.

Patrizio in the Tralivio vineyard

Verdicchio Classico 2008 - vine age 4-20 years - stainless steel
color - pale straw with green tinge
nose - honey, almond, sweet herbs, lemon
palate - apricot, honey, meyer lemon, zesty, great acidity

Verdicchio Tralivio 2007

stainless steel
color - golden straw
nose - honey, lime zest, blanched almonds, citrus
palate - spice, honey, meyer lemon, great acidity, long bright finish

Verdicchio Balciana 2007- oldest vines, best vineyard site.
picture up at the top of the blog is the Balciana vineyard. Late harvest wine, but completley dry.
color - gold
nose - spun honey and spice
palate - cream honey, lemon curd, full bodied, rich luxurious mouth-feel

Verdicchio Passito 2007- sweet wine. grapes are hand picked usually at the end of October and dry on straw mats for 5 weeks.
color: gold
nose: delicate honey, bitter almonds
palate: light pineapple syrup, cane sugar, honey, almond, sweet spice.
This is not a cloying passito, it is intensely flavored and balanced, it is defined by its flavor not its sweetness.

www.sartarelli.it