Solera Style Grappa ---- Northern Italian Trendetter -Segnana Solera Grappa

I am trying to become more familiar with Grappa. As a full-time Italophile; it is my duty. Maybe like some of you I have only had the cheap stuff that tastes like rocket fuel or rubbing alcohol. My horizons were broadened and my palate updated when I tried the Mauro chamomile Grappa and the Nonino Chardonnay Grappa. These are smooth and elegant distilled drinks. I had no idea that Grappa could be so sophisticated. When I was in Italy a few years ago, my boyfriend and I saw this Segnana Solera Grappa in the duty free of Milan. We were going to give it to my father who has a penchant for scotch, but we had to open it to sample... and then we decided to keep it for ourselves! Sorry Dad!

This Grappa is from the region of Trentino in the North of Italy. It's an area famous for Pinot Nero, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco in terms of wine. made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. Regionally speaking, it is the home of the craggy Dolomites, outdoor sport, Speck, and German speaking Italians. About 35% of the people in this region (officially Trentino/Alto-Adige) speak German and 60% speak Italian. The missing 5%? Ladin; a romance language - spoken in this area and is similar to some of the other mountain languages of Switzerland and Fruili.

GRAPPA 101 - The facts
(1) Produced in Italy
(2) Produced from pomace
(3) The fermentation and distillation must occur on the pomace. No water can be added

Grappa is from the word"grape stalk", most Grappa is made by distilling pomace and grape residue. This is mainly the skins, but also stems and seeds left over after pressing for wine. It was originally made to prevent waste by using leftovers at the end of the wine season. All Grappa is not created equal - and just like wine, different grapes are used. The flavor and style of grappa depends on the type and quality of the grape used as well as the specifics of the distillation process. Grappa was also said to have first been made in Trentino/ Alto-Adige.

What makes this grappa from Segnana different is that the employ a sort of Solera method. I know we've been learning a lot in this entry - distillation, grappa regulations, new regions... The Solera system is from Jerez in Spain where they make sherry. Basically is a system that takes from several different barrels at several stages of aging. It's a little complicated, but what it ensures is that you will always have some older more matured wine or liquid with some younger wines and then the barrels are always being replenished. It makes for an excellent flow chart. Segnana ages the Grappa made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in oak casks and then they use this Solera system to blend the Grappa and give it a certain depth and maturity.

copper still for Grappa production

color: amber, medium caramel

nose: sea salt caramel, vanilla, oak

palate: full bodied, spice, delicate

Bordeaux Blend in Italy - Altrovino DueMani Cabernet Franc e Merlot

I wasn't just drawn to the wine because its label matches my background so perfectly. No - I am a huge Cabernet Franc lover and lover of Merlot (I'm not afraid to say it!). I also think that this importer/distributor Acid Inc. always has amazing varietal specific wines with great acidity (go figure, eh!).

This is a small producer in Tuscany produces 3 wines - one Cab. Franc/Merlot blend which we are talking about, one Cab. Franc and the third wine is Syrah. They only make about 1000 cases of the DueMani Cab. Franc/ Merlot. Their vineyard overlooks the Tuscan coastline. Maybe it's just the power of suggestion - but I thought that I could detect a salty freshness on the palate. Their highest vineyard sites are set aside for Cab. Franc, then as you go down a little lower the rows evolve into Merlot vines and then even further; Syrah. All of their grapes are certified organic and biodynamic by Demeter.

So let's get the the wine! This is technically their entry-level wine, but I didn't think that there was anything entry-level about it. First of all, it's a $35 wine - and it's a serious contender with a lot of Super Tuscans that I have tasted. I would love to try their other two wines. There is power and balance and great acidity - as I would expect from anything that Acid Inc represents. There is also a delicate balance between the fruit and the minerality and the tannin that I found really compelling. It is bright and fresh and I would like to revisit it in a few years - I'm sure that it will be even better then.

Until then, if you see this bottle, buy it! Cellar it or decant and drink with grilled meats or with the wild boar you just hunted. There are only few of these bottles out here in the US Market!

color: deep purple

nose: licorice, blackcurrant, blackberry, and spice

palate: fresh plum, more licorice and blackcurrant

Falanghina!!! Falanghina!!!! Falanghina!!!! Falanghina Terredora Irpinia 2008

The sun is finally shining in New York and heating up the streets. We know that makes wine wines taste even more delicious. Nobody knows more about heat than those Southern Italians, especially those from old Napoli. Not surprising, there are amazing indigenous varietals hailing from that region. Many of these were brought over by the ancient Greeks. They are certainly my kind of people, setting up vineyards and bread baking ovens wherever they went. You may be familiar with some of these grapes; Greco di Tufo (get a sense of the Greek origins?), Fiano di Avellino, Aglianico(red) and our star today - Falanghina.

This is a DOC Irpinia wine. Irpinia is located in the province of Avellino. It's important to remember how close to the Mediterranean Avellino is - just on the outskirts of Naples. Also there is an ashiness to the soil (thanks Vesuvius) that really contributes to the minerality of the wines produced in that area. Now back to this Falanghina...

As a grape, it is usually drunk relatively young. It is usually fermented in stainless steel and not aged in any oak. This Terredora Falanghina DOC Irpinia is no exception. It is crisp and fresh. It has a floral/mineral profile. I spoke about the proximity to sea a little while ago, and that is also important for what is paired successfully with this wine.... swordfish, mussels, buffalo mozzarella. Yum! I found this wine fresh and clean and bright with really delicate fruit aromas and smooth on the palate.

Here's what I thought:

color: pale straw

nose: quince, honey, orange blossom

palate: Meyer lemon, honey, kumquat

DELICIOUS!!

approx price $15.99