Rose Sneak Attack! Calcu Rose Cochagua Valley, Chile 2008

I found this gorgeous bottle of Rose at Puro-Chile a new wine store in NYC that only sells Chilean wine (http://www.puro-chile.com/).  It's awesome - and next door they sell very cool Chilean products like honey, avocado oil, chutneys... I am a sucker for chutney! 

So when I opened this the other night with my friend Catherine, it made me think of the study my boss told me about. He mentioned that these testers tinted white wine to make it red and stripped away color to make a red wine appear white. The wine scholars would still note “hints of plum” on the “red wine” even though it was only a tinted white wine. We often judge more from sight and then compensate for taste based on our expectation. I know that if I’ve spent $80 on a bottle of wine at a restaurant, I want to make sure I enjoy it - $80’s worth!

As I vigorously inhaled the aromas of the wine I became perplexed.  Let me tell you what I was drinking... it was a Calcu Rose 2008 made from Malbec (50%), Carmenere(40%), and Syrah(10%). Even though the color was pink lemonade pink, I still was expecting a fuller bodied rose because of these heavy hitter red varietals. Catherine sipped it first and told me that she smelled a lot of sulphur. I thought she might just be experiencing a barnyard-y quality from the Syrah. Yes, I assumed she was wrong (it goes back to the study mentioned above - people who claim to be "in the know" come out with different expectations), but she wasn’t wrong. Initially, there was a lot of sulphur on the nose, but it blew off and what was left was not berry, or hints of plum, or raspberry. It was GRAPEFRUIT!  Pink Grapefruit to be precise - a little Indian River to be exact! Grapefruit is something I would normally attribute to a fresh and zesty white- like a Sauvignon Blanc.

Respectable rose is made by allowing red grapes minimal contact with their skins (that’s where red wine gets its color and also where that miracle Reversitrol is located). Sometimes, in very frownie faced situations, Rose is made by blending white wine with a touch of red wine. This Rose drank so much like a white wine that I thought it might have been blended with some Sauvignon Blanc, but there was a backbone of very tart cranberry and wild strawberry that made me reconsider.   Also, the name.  Calcu means  magician in the Mapuche language.  There was definetly a little sorcery at work in the bottle.

Even though this rose was not what I expected, I tried to keep an open mind (it was fantastic with my blue cheese, pecan pear salad.  I fought to not let my expectations get in the way of my wine enjoyment and experience.  Hmmm as Stan Marsh would say, " I think we learned something today!"

And then... she ordered a beer! La Fin du Monde by Unibroue

The other day I was cozied up to the bar at a French bistrot by Columbia University.  It was a cold New York February afternoon and if you used a little imagination, you might have believed you were in Montreal.  I ordered the Moules Frites and instead of checking out their wines by the glass I looked at their beer menu. Given my Canadian faux realite it seemed like the right thing to do!

They had a lot of cool Belgian beers and craft beers. I couldn’t resist – I was overwhelmed by the list – but they had good descriptions (I imagine) of each the beers – so I ordered the Fin du Monde because it promised to be floral and aromatic.

Appropriately, it was poured in its designated glass and that description was no lie – it was floral without being perfumy and it was quite aromatic. It was citrusy, spicy, caramelly and fragrant. With the salty fries and the shallot /garlic butter-broth goodness; it was a perfect pairing! The Fin du Monde (a trappist style Golden Ale) was refreshing and yet substantial. I totally left with a buzz – it made it that much easier to brave the subway!

This is a Canadian beer from a microbrewery called Unibroue. They are pretty serious about their craft beers and they triple ferment this beer in the bottle according to ye olde tradition. They don't completely filter everything out of the beer.  That's why savvy servers take their time in gingerly pouring these trappist style ales.  The lees (dead yeast cells) are at the bottom of the bottle.  However, this adds to the flavor profile, you get your vitamin B, and it adds to the logevity of the beer.  The company states that the beers can last up to 9 years.  Whoah!  Oh and it's 9% alcohol (similar to a sweet German Riesling or a Vinho Verde) that's more boozy than the average beer bear!

If you see these in the craft beer section of your store - give it a shot.  Craft beers are gaining more and more shelf space in the liquor stores and supermarkets.  It's easy to see why.

http://www.unibroue.com/products/fin.cfm

Color Blond like me


Palate Smooth, slightly tart with the balanced flavors of wild spices, malt and hops


Aroma: Caramelized orange, cardamom, brioche

Mon Dieu oh la la Mondeuse!!! A Pinot Imposter? Domaine Labbe Mondeuse 2006, Savoie France

There's a little alpine scene on this label, and at first sight you fully expect to see the twirling drindle dress of Fraulein Maria on the sloping meadow.  She's not there - because we're in France, not Austria. I don't often think of Alpine scenes when I think of French winemaking regions - but then again I've never been to the French Alps.   The grape is Mondeuse, and it's exactly what you might expect from a high altitude area like the Savoie in France. It's on the light side of medium bodied, similar to a cool climate Pinot Noir.  It's a spicy little number with aromas of red cherry, black pepper, strawberries and violets.

I'd never heard of Mondeuse before.  It's certianly fun to say and I was taken in by it's Sound of Music-esque label.  Christy Frank, owner of Frankly Wines in Tribeca saw me entranced and convinced me to take home a bottle.  Of course, this was in the summer, when light red wine drinking is de riguer.  Did I ruin the experience by drinking it in Janvier?  Of course not!  I just had a rose last night - I'll tell you about that later.

Christy told me that 's awesome, the grapes are grown at the base of the Alps and that the spicy-peppery goodness would blow me away!  Thank you, Christy!! Grab a bottle from her http://www.franklywines.com/  at $14.99 - you can't go wrong.

There has been some debate over whether or not Mondeuse is the same grape as Refosco (from Northeastern Italy).  The styles are certianly similar  - I've found Refosco to be fuller bodied, but then again, this is the very first Mondeuse I've tried.

Verdict: a delightful fruity and spicy medium-light bodied wine I would use as an alternative to Pinot Noir.  It has a lot of character and potential for a very lovely drink.  Great acidity makes it a wonderful food wine (it did go very well with my ceasar salad).

Color: bright purply red
Nose: peppery, red cherries. violets
Palate: delicate, cherries, wild strawberry, minerality

Oh Brother! 200 Monges 1998 Reserva, Bodegas Vinicola Real, Rioja Spain

I've been holding onto this bottle for about four years and I was concerned that it wouldn't hold up in my cellar (read living room).  It did!  It was delicious.  Even more delicious than I remembered it being when I represnted it as a newbie sales rep and took a bottle as a "sample".

Bodegas Vinicola Real is a small winery in the Rioja Alta sub-region in Rioja.  As the name suggests, it is the highest elevation.  The winery was founded in 1989 and specialize in growing a few different types of grapes for their wines.  We will concern ourselves with the red varietals; Tempranillo, Graciano,and Mazuelo.

Tempranillo - ripens early (hence the name - temprano means early in Spanish).  Blends well with other grapes, ages well in oak and in barrel. Medium to low levels of alcohol.  Typical flavors and aromas are wild strawberrys, tobacco, dried cherries and black olives.

Graciano - low yeilding grape, great quality,  intese perfume, weight and pigmentation.  Unfortuanely, very prone to rot.

Mazuelo - otherwise known as our friend Carignan or Carineno.  This is a high acid and high tannic grape that ripens and buds late.  It's color and tartness make a great blending grape

For this wine, the breakdown is 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo.  It is fermented in French oak and then it is macerated (left on its skins) for over 3 weeks.  The wine is then aged in a combination of French and American oak for 2 years and then aged in bottle for over a year.  Rioja has strict regualtions with regards to what contsitutes a Reserva and a Gran Reserva.  They are stricter than the general Spanish laws.  In order for a wine to qualify as a Reserva in Rioja it must be aged for 24 months in oak, and at least 12 months in the bottle prior to leaving the winery.

The name 200 Monges (200 Monks) refers to the nearby monastary in the town where the winery is; Albelda de Iregua.  As I was drinking the wine I had thought that these capable brothers were behind the actual winemaking - like so many of them have been historically.  However, there has been no divine or monkish hand in this winemaking - just a reference to a nearby monastary where in it's heyday (900's) close to 200 monks flourished. 

Let's get back to the wine!  This beauty is unfiltered so watch out for the gritty sediment.  Maybe you can read your future in the bottom of your wine glass if you're tipsy enough.  As for me this is what I thought:

color: amazingly ruby for a 10 year old wine.  I did not see any hints of brick or orange
nose: vanilla spiced raspberries, clove and cherry
palate: smooth and rich, gorgeous licorice (but not overpowering) black cherry, deep rasperries and cream. Very luscious.

Verdict: I'm sorry that it was my last bottle!!!  This bottle was so fantastic that we can't even remember what we were eating at the time!

Retail price: $45 approx.

Weinert? Argentine Wine that'll blow your mind!

I've wanted to go to Argentina for a long time. I want to see the wineries in Mendoza and I also am a huge fan of beef and dulce de leche. I know that I'll start singing "What's new Buenos Aires! I'm new..." and embarrass myself. I've always liked the jammy Malbecs and the floral Torrontes. When I worked at Zachys, Argentina was a go-to region.  Newcomers to wine find it lush, accessible and consistent. Other boozers like the price. I was getting a little bored with wines in the $10-$20 category from Argentina. I felt like there wasn't a ton of diversity in this New World arena. That is... until... I tasted wines from Bodegas de Weinert.


Weinert isn't new to the scene like some Juanie-come-latelies. They've been around since the '70s (like me). They were the very first wine to be reviewed (& highly I might add) by Robert Parker. They produce a distinct old-world style of wine. They are thoughtful wines full of character.

Bodega Weinert was founded in 1975 by Bernardo Weinert who has a passion for wine. German sounding name confusing you?  The Weinerts are from a German colony in Brazil.  He searched high and low for the perfect locations for his vineyards. He worked with the legendary winemaker, Don Raul de la Mota, who at 91 years old passed away earlier this week.
They make several tiers of wine. They have a great big earthy old world-style Malbec that you would think was from France. I also fell in love with the 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and I’m not a Cabernet Sauvignon fanatic. It was the Carrascal Blanco (Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc) that I found unusual and delicious. I’ve also never had/seen this combination on the shelves or wine lists here in NYC.
Chenin Blanc is usually found in the Loire Valley where it is manifested in various degrees of sweetness. South Africa also grows quite a bit and sometimes they call it Steen. This is usually a steely, green apple, dry style. Sauvignon Blanc, we’re all familiar with, but this too is famously grown in the Loire Valley, albeit a little deeper into the heart of France in the Sancerre region.
This is an unusual blend for Argentina, but the Weinerts are always experimenting with grapes. The Carrascal Blanco is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chenin Blanc. They have about 2 acres of Chenin- this comes from the Iduna vineyard; named after their vivacious daughter. The vines are 30+ years old.  There is some Chenin grown in Argentina, but it’s mainly destined for cheap sparkling wine. This Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin is stainless steel fermented and hangs out on its lees (dead yeast cells) for 3-4 months. Malolactic fermentation gets down there on the lees transforming the wine into a soft creamy goodness, and yet it maintains very fresh acidity. This really gives the wine a more complex personality (like me & Iduna).

I had the privilege of tasting this wine with Miss Iduna Weinert herself! She we swirled sniffed and sipped this together at the Chelsea Wine Vault.

Color: pale lemon
Nose: Iduna says (and I concur) the Chenin dominates the aroma. There is a beautiful spun honey, sweet cream butter, macadamia nut and Iduna also says butternut squash (something I would have NEVER come up with, but she is right on!)
Palate: The Sauvignon Blanc dominates the palate with fresh lemon-lime zestiness.  There is a zippy lemongrass and sweetpea that rounds it out

Iduna and I enjoying some Weinert at a NYC trade tasting

If you are lucky enough, you may catch a glimpse of Iduna Weinert. She is the sassy Weinert ambassadress to the world can be seen promoting and educating wine drinkers on her family's wine.  When  you see any bottle of Weinert on the shelf or on a wine list -- grab it.  You won't be disappointed!!

Yessir I Cider!! Eden Ice Cider NV Vermont

I am upfront about my sweet tooth.  I will also confess my weakness for artisinal products.  You can just imagine my delight when I found myself presenting next to Eden Vermont Ice Cider at a trade tasting recently in Massachsusetts.   This was one the the highlights of the tasting! 

I, like 80% of the other thirsty folk that stopped by the table assumed that Ice Cider is made with frozen apples (because that's how icewine is made.. from grapes that have frozen on the vine).  Eleanor of Eden patiently told me and consequently everyone else, that apples fall from the tree.  Aha!  They don't freeze ON the tree.  This liquid dessert is made from the Cider that has been frozen not from apples that have been frozen.  Aha!!  So it is as the name suggests: ICE CIDER -- frozen cider.

Eleanor and her husband Albert (French pronunciation here please) use 11 differnt varieties of apples to make just the right blend of for the Ice Cider.  The largest percentages are Empire, MacIntosh, Northern Spy (see apple above) and various other "french cider apples" as Eleanor charmingly puts it.  The thought of a "french cider apple" makes me feel all warm and tarte tatin-y inside.  This duo has worked hard at creating just the right balance for the blend.  Cider apples are broken down into several categories such as sweet, bittersweet, sharp and bittersharp.  Each have different levels of tanin and acidity.

Eleanor and Albert Leger lucky owners of Eden Ice Cider

Back to the Ice Cider... around November, when the apples are at their peak; they are picked and pressed.   They pour the precious cider into special plastic containers and leave them outside to freeze in the bracing Vermont air.  They are in the way northern tippy-top of Vermont so there's no worry of it not freezing.  Once the cider is completely frozen they bring it inside to thaw.  This is where the delicate cider trickles down and percolates through the ice - that takes about 3-4 days.  Then it is fermented using a Riesling yeast.  I thought that was really interesting!  Eleanor says that particular strain works well with the high sugar levels of the apple juice.  Interesting indeed.   Meanwhile, there is  huge carcass of ice bereft of it's cider that apparently just hangs out in the yard 'til it naturally melts.  Considering where they are in Vermont; it could be June or July!  Just kidding. I'm sure they get to wear shorts there at some point during the year!

What does it taste like?  Amazing.  So light and pure.  It really tastes good for you,  I felt like I was really doing myself a favor by drinking it!  When she told me that there are about 8lbs. of apples that go into every bottle - I felt like maybe I'd had my fiber for the day!

color: golden yellow

nose: golden delicious apples, it smells just like cider

palate: not cloyingly sweet, very delicate, pure apple, creaminess, honey and baking spices.

http://www.edencider.com/

Wait! Wait! Rosé Me! A Confession to Drinking Rosé After Labor Day!

The leaves are changing color; they're falling on the ground, The pumpkins are out.  Candy corn is on display at Rite Aid.  Today, even though there was a nip in the air and I wore a sweater; I wore my open toe sandals. I saw some people on the subway doing the same and smile a conspiritorial smirk.  We hardly had a summer!  I'm not letting go that easily either!  One way of not letting go is drinking rosé.

Ok, it might not be sweltering out.  You may have lost your tan.  You might not be in the south of France, the Hamptons, or poolside; but you can still drink pink wine.  It's like wearing white after Labor Day - it's okay to drink rosé after September! That's right!! You can drink it all year long.  Drink it at Thanksgiving - it pairs better with Turkey than Zinfandel and all those other big reds magazines would have you believe.

Actually, now is a great time to buy rosé.  A lot of retailers are freaked out that they still have inventory. They might feel like discounting them.  I just bought a couple of Roses that I plan on sipping whilst wearing my flops and shades. , Domaine La Croix Belle's Grenache-Syrah from Languedoc, Calera's Pinot Noir rosé from California, Rizzardi's Bardolino Chiaretto from Italy.  All of these wines were around $10 even though they used to be around $15-$18. I love a bargain. 

Rosé has the reputation in the US as being a seasonal wine.  This is a huge leap from 5-10 years ago when rosé were only thought of as sweet wines. Now, most of the rosé in stores (in the Northeast anyway) are on the dry side.  It's tricky for importers, distributors, and retailers to calculate how much rosé to either carry or bring in.   Everyone is terrified of being stuck with older vintages of rosé. You probably saw 2008 rosé in your wine stores.  There may have been an odd 2007 - but you'd better believe that your retailer was getting a great deal. However, even though we drink rosés young, fresh 'n fruity; some of them can age for a few years if they are made well. 

What is rosé? Some of you oldies might still call it Blush?  Well stop it! Don't make me cringe!  It's rosé.  If you want to speak Italian, call it a  rosato.  If you are really cool and drinking a Pinot Noir rosé, maybe you'll refer to it as a vin gris  Rosé wine is made from the juice of red grapes.  The color is from the contact with the grape skins.  Some times it is quite minimal - like hours, sometimes it can be a few days.  The longer the contact with the skins, the deeper the color and more taninns the wine will show. Sometimes Roses can be an orangy salmon color (just like Champagne rosé) and sometimes they can be a very light but intense violet. I am a sucker for the ones that look like fruit punch.  Thank you Scaldabrone rosé from Antinori (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah). 

Buonchristi's small production Rose of Syrah is amazingly full-bodied and spicy.   I bought a case of Lechthaler's Lagrein Rosato.  I still have about 6 bottles left.  I'm not worried.  The acidity is so good that the wine will last for a couple of years.

Don't be a fad follower.  If you like your rosé, don't be afraid to drink it year round.  Yes, rosé tastes amazing with a salade nicoise while dining al fresco - however, that is just ONE pairing.  Rosé can give a warmth that can give you comfort during your next Nor'easter.