I am always on the hunt for aromatic white wines. When I worked in the store, so many people were just looking for a Chardonnay or a Sauvignon Blanc. Not that these grapes don't make amazing wines... but come on!! Step out of your comfort zone. I would always feel as if I had scored a point for the underdog grapes everytime some Westchesterer came in looking for a California Chardonnay and left with a Torrontes, a Pinot Bianco, or a Gruner Veltliner in his or her shopping bag. Yay!
If you come across a Pinot Blanc in your wine store adventures, pick one up. You are most likely to find them in the Alsace area, department, aisle, shelf, or nook. I suppose it depends on your store. You may also see one if your store is progressive enough to have an Austrian section - it may be listed as Weissburgunder on the label. Don't be afraid of that Teutonic name - say it how it's spelled AND look at you -- now you know how to say Pinot Blanc in German! Actually it is White Burgundy (no not Chardonnay - smartie pants). There are some outstanding Pinot Blancs from Alto Adige and the Veneto too - they will be labeled as Pinot Bianco. Ah ha! Now you speak Italian!Let me give you a little Pinot Blanc history! As the name suggests Pinot Blanc was born in France and as its German name suggests, from Bourgogne. It is a mutation of Pinot Gris which is also a mutation of Pinot Noir. Now there is very very very very very little Pinot Blanc grown in Burgundy, the majority really is in Alsace and Alto Adige. That is why I have two examples here from those two regions.
In general, Pinot Blanc is always a secondary grape - of secondary importance...never the star. I think that is such a terrible fate. Even my WSET book says that it is a white grape of not great importance. So I'm thinking UNDERSTUDY! BRIDESMAID!! sort of the Jennifer Anniston of grapes. No I've gone too far there, I really do like Pinot Blanc. It is so aromatic - and it can range from quince and pineapple to white peach and washed pebbles (nice one, eh!). It is usually stainless steel fermented and that really lets the fruit and minerality shine along with a beautiful acidity. There are Pinot Blancs that are very ageworthy. Hofstatter from Alto Adige does a single vineyard old vines Pinot - it's amazing.
These two are great to taste side by side because we can really see the regional differences. Alsace is sunny and shielded by large amounts of rainfall from the Vosges mountains. There is usally a richesse of flavor in these wines that contributes to their unique Alsatian quality. They may also be higher in alcohol. Alto Adige on the other hand is ALTO indeed. Sometimes called Sudtirol - this region is situated near the Italian Alps in Northeastern Italy. Most of the better vineyards are on south facing slopes, but it is generally a bit chillier up there so you will see a crisper, more aromatic style.
nose - quince, lime, orange water, white peach
palate - mineral, quince, lemon/lime
Tiefenbrunner Pinot Bianco 2008 Alto Adige, Itlay
nose - subdued pineapple, lime
palate - crisp, mineral, lime rind, Meyer lemon
No comments:
Post a Comment