There are a lot of Pinotage poo poo'ers out there. I don't judge them too harshly, there are a lot of bad mass market Pinotages giving the good ones a bad name. This oft maligned grape is under constant critique. Some say that at its worst, it tastes like rubber tires (tyres in South Africa) band-aids, paint thinner and/or rubbing alcohol. I've found some beautiful Pinotages that have complex aromas of brambly fruits, red cherry, earthiness, barn-yardy notes and even a hint of an exotic and sassy note that I will simply call: Animale.What is Pinotage?
Pinotage is a crossing (not a hybrid) of two grapes of the same species, in this case of Vitis Vinifera. All of the famous grapes of quality are Vitis Vinifera and you know them: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Chardonnay, etc.
Made official in 1925, Pinotage is the love child between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Mother Pinot Noir is from a good family of high social standing - she's aloof, moody, elegant and delicate, but can be warm and smell like cherries. Pappa Cinsault, a decidedly less popular grape from humbler southern beginnings, but sturdy, strapping, earthy, he brings darker richer fruits to the party. It's a little Lady Chatterly-esque, no?
Pinotage has become the signature grape of South Africa. That's not hard to believe since it was created there. Pinotages can range in price from $8.99 upwards of $50. The two I have listed below are in the under $25 category and they just might turn you into a Pinotage lover, or at the very least, pique your interest. Pinotage has a wide range of typical aromas and tastes, but basically, you can expect something that is a little like Pinot Noir (cherry, strawberry, spice) and Cinsault (blackberry, black cherry, earthy) with the addition of an exotic element we have already touched upon that I call Animale. Cabernet lovers will be drawn to the sheer power of the wines, and if you are a Shiraz enthusiast, the funky spice and boldness will appeal to you. Pinotage is NOT for the faint of heart! Check with your doctor before popping the cork.
Doolhof "Dark Lady" Pinotage 2009, from Wellington South Africa really seduced me. The more I smelled this, the more interesting it became. I won't lie to you, at first sniff I was afraid. There was that initial funky junk that I often smell with Pinotage. It is so distinct and so polarizing. It challenging to describe, but just think black strap molasses on a hot rubber tire. Once that dissipated, aromas of burnt molasses and blackberry with macerated strawberry came into play. There was a spicy note too, of clove and nutmeg. After a little more time, chocolaty aromas evolved. It was really spectacular to see how much this wine changed in the glass minute after minute. Another one of my faves is the Warwick Pinotage. They have mastered the art of making a fruity spicy Pinotage that has prominent aromas of Bing cherry and old bay spice instead of the inside of rubber tire (or tyre if you're in South Africa). This a full bodied beauty that has the bright red fruit that is expertly co-mingled with this earthy Animale. The result is a very interesting and almost intellectual wine. It keeps challenging your senses. For me, that is a very agreeable position to be in. I do dislike a boring wine!
Dark Lady Pinotage 2009
color: dark ruby
nose: initially burnt and charred notes, moving into blackberry and strawberry and then spiced leather and chocolate
palate: smooth and rich, full bodied and velvety
approx retail: $17.99
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