Sunday, January 16, 2011

A Rye Story: McKenzie Rye, Sazerc Rye and Russell's 6 Year Reserve

With the increase in popularity of brown spirits and my shopping addiction,  it's no wonder that we have about 6 different Rye's in our home bar.  Rye the preferred spirit in our house cocktail; the Manhattan.  Today, I take 3 different Ryes for 3 different reasons to make a boozy evaluation:

1) Sazerac - the classic
2) Russell's Reserve - 6 Year - the aged, with a big company backing
3) McKenzie - the newcomer - artisinal small batch spirit

What is rye?
We've all had rye bread and pumpernickel bread, no?  This is the same grain that we are talking about.  Bourbon is a corn-heavy spirit (at least 51% of the mash must be corn), and Rye is a rye grain based spirit. Rye bread is a little spicier and and sharper than corn bread, so it's no surprise that Rye spirits have a distinct spice to them and are less sweet tasting than Bourbons.  After distillation, Rye must be age in new oak barrels.  It must be aged for at least 2 years if it is to be called "Straight Rye Whiskey".
Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey 90 Proof
The Classic
This is the first Rye that I ever purchased.  It claims to be have been America's first branded cocktail; the Sazerac, which is enjoying a revival thanks to Rye-minded bar folk on both sides of the zinc. From it's New Orleans beginnings in the late 1800's, Sazerac has grown in size to be a part of a sizable company that also owns Buffalo Trace, Rain Vodka, Firefly Vodka,  Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon, and Chi Chi's cocktail mixers (I know my readers will know and love that last one).  The crispness of the Sazerac makes it a fantastic partner for a cocktail.  This classic has staying power.
color: light amber
nose: pleasantly and subtly, aromatic, heather honey, slightly fruity, spice, light caramel
palate: crisp and light, spiced caramel, candied orange peel
cost: $24.99



Russell's Reserve Rye - 6 Year Old Kentucky Straight Rye -   90 Proof
The Designer Aged
Made by our friends over at Wild Turkey in Kentucky this is a smooth and unctuous Rye.  There is certainly the familiar Rye spice, but there is a distinct richness that differs from the Sazerac (for better or worse).   Russell's is a straight rye, so it's been aged for more than 2 years - 6 years in this case.  I know we love to hate big corporations, but because they are Wild Turkey, they have the luxury of making this pet project.  Because it's small batch distilled, it's time consuming.  They claim to hand select the rye and slow ferment it; two practices that are costly.   The long term aging has taken a little of the raw spiciness out, but it is undeniably a Rye and you could drink this puppy straight (or with a few Fabbri cherries).
color: light amber
nose: smoky caramel, clove and other baking spices
palate: smooth rich and luscious - golden caramel
$34.99


McKenzie Rye Whiskey 91 Proof
The Indie Small Batch
This Rye is from the Finger Lakes area of upstate New York made using local grains from area farms.  They produce some other spirits, but this one seems to be their most popular in NYC. They are true craft distillers, making their booze in small batches with a traditional copper pot still (this one was custom made in Germany - and you can allegedly see the gleam from the highway) without the addition of commercial enzymes.  They finish the wine in sherry casks (we looooove sherry!)  http://www.fingerlakesdistilling.com/. The McKenzie had a woodier, vanilla aroma and was as smooth, powerful and luscious (similar to the Russell Reserve) on the palate with tons of butterscotch.  For my New York area readers, we can drink a somewhat local spirit, and for all us, we can support an artisinal endeavor!  It's a win-win because this Rye is really delicious.

color: honeyed amber
nose: spice, molasses, vanilla, brown sugar, praline
palate: woody spice, smooth butterscotch finish
$34.99


No comments: